UKC

Dave MacLeod climbing the Indian Face E9 6c Fri Night Vid

© Hot Aches Productions

This week's Friday Night Video covers Dave MacLeod's 2010 ascent of Indian Face, on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy). The film was featured as an extra on Hot Aches Productions Long Hope DVD and tells the tale of Dave climbing the worlds most notorious E9.

The Indian Face was first climbed by Johnny Dawes back in 1986 and before Dave's ascent had seen two repeats from Neil Gresham and Nick Dixon. Since Dave's ascent in 2010, it has had four more repeats.

The route is a very bold and technical slab climb with minimal protection but relatively (for an E9) easy climbing. It has gained almost mythical status in British climbing, partly due to the first ascensionist Johnny Dawes being one of the UK's true climbing heroes and partly due to a lack of repeats over its twenty four year lifespan. As fashions in climbing have moved toward harder, steeper and safer routes, The Indian Face has remained a desperate and deadly challenge reliant more on skill and technique than finger strength and muscle endurance.

The reported French grade of the route is around F7c, and this is at the very lowest end of the E9 scale, but the technical and continuously smeary and balancy nature of the climbing, coupled with the death-fall potential, make an onsight lead a terrifying proposition - hence the E9 grade.


This post has been read 14,390 times

Return to Latest News


People in the wider world of climbing tend to hear about my climbing through the well known films E11 or Echo Wall or my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same...

Dave's Athlete Page 79 posts 14 videos



Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

29 Mar, 2019

That was brilliant. First film I've seen that really makes it clear how terrifyingly sketchy that thing is.

29 Mar, 2019

Indeed, I found Dave's breathing on the sound track during the climb haunting.

29 Mar, 2019

Spots of rain on the lens at the top out 🤦‍♂️🥳

29 Mar, 2019

Two things.

1) What a brilliant piece of filming and more importantly, climbing.

2) Scarpa, FFS keep making brilliant shoes that work amazingly one every situation. Like the Stix. And stop changing them. We like them as they are.

But mostly 1)

Andy F

29 Mar, 2019

Absolutely nothing to add to 1). The way he motors through that top section is breathtakingly incredible. It also increased my amazement at the audacity and capability of Dawes, who, after all, did not have the prior knowledge that the thing was actually humanly possible.

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest