Michi Wohlleben climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b+/E9/10

Switzerland based Michi Wohlleben has made an ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung at Burs in Austria. The route was first climbed in 2009 and weighs in at F8b/+, making the route roughly equivalent to an E9 or E10.

Michi Wohlleben © Michi Wohlleben
Michi Wohlleben
© Michi Wohlleben
Wohlleben is an extremely versatile climber having made numerous hard ascents in several diciplines. At the age of 21, Wohlleben became one of the youngest UIAGM mountain guides, he has completed speed ascents of the Eiger North Face, the Tre Cime North Faces, climbed M14, F8c and now an ascent of a notoriously hard E9/10.

Prinzip Hoffnung was one of the crowning achievements of Beat Kammerlander's climbing career. In 2009, Kammerlander commented on the route saying:

"During my successful climb when I reached the crux I had the feeling as if I was constantly falling, I was so surprised that I still stuck to the rock, like a drop dangling under a ceiling. I felt that I was falling but I kept going for it. The primal will that I felt in this situation, coming from deep down in my stomach, is what I remember and what carried me through. When I climb such a route I don't feel like I am 50 years old."

Wohlleben's ascent is the 8th after Kammerlander, Alex Luger, Jacopo Larcher, Fabi Buhl, Babsi Zangerl, Christian Bindhammer and Nemuel Feurle.

Here's a short film of Babsi climbing the route:


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Wohlleben is an extremely versatile climber having made numerous hard ascents in several diciplines. At the age of 21, Wohlleben became one of the youngest UIAGM mountain guides, he has completed speed ascents of the...

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13 Mar

Nice vid with that and a great looking piece of rock,

Chis

13 Mar

If only I could have learned to fall off with such insouciance....

14 Mar

I find this a bit odd... that some routes seem to get all the limelight and others, not so much. In this occatition I can understand the news item (young lad crushing and Kammerlander klassik), but a double send of another F8b+ trad routes should also get some attention...https://www.instagram.com/p/Bu9BvQalvNm/ Or perhaps these E8/9/10 sends are so common place in the alps, that there is no need to reports them en mass.

14 Mar

There was at least one more - particularly impressive - ascent:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=079xtXaLYoM

My apologies if this was not mentioned on purpose, but since it's out on youtube, I reckon he doesn't mind the mild exposure.