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Silver for Shauna Coxsey in IFSC Boulder World Cup Moscow

© Nikita Tsarev/IFSC

Team GB's Shauna Coxsey managed one step higher on the podium this weekend in Moscow, placing 2nd behind Slovenia's Janja Garnbret. The 26 year-old finished 3rd just one week ago in Meiringen, Switzerland (UKC news report).

16-year-old GB Team member Emily Phillips impressed by qualifying in 2nd place in her group, behind Janja Garnbret and ahead of Shauna and other regular finalists. Emily finished 10th overall after the semi finals. A lack of top Japanese athletes (notably Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki, who are resting ahead of the Chinese rounds and Miho Nonaka, who is currently injured) left the field more open.

Many athletes were also competing in speed for the first time as part of their Tokyo 2020 selection preparation. Emily placed 52nd and Shauna 58th, while William Bosi and Billy Ridal placed 54th and 56th respectively.

In the women's final, a set of problems that appeared too easy resulted in 4 tops each from the first three athletes, and 3 tops each from the remaining climbers. Shauna, Janja and Fanny Gibert (FRA) flashed the first boulder, putting Shauna into a provisional lead on countback to the semi-finals. All six women flashed problem 2, which effectively became obsolete for separating the athletes. Both Slovenians Janja and Lucka Rakovec flashed problem three, which involved a tricky coordination move on a slab. Shauna required 2 attempts and Fanny 3. The final problem mirrored the third, with a similar coordination move and compression finish on slightly steeper ground. Janja, Fanny and Lucka flashed it, while Shauna misread her first attempt and reached the zone and top on her second. Janja took gold, Shauna silver and Fanny bronze.

Shauna Coxsey competing in the Moscow semi-finals.  © Nikita Tsarev/IFSC
Shauna Coxsey competing in the Moscow semi-finals.
© Nikita Tsarev/IFSC

Writing on Instagram, Shauna commented: 'So outrageously psyched right now! Another World Cup and another medal! So unbelievably happy to be walking away with silver after an epic event.'

The men's final was more of a spectacle, with the winner being decided on the final boulder. Problem 2 was similar to the second of the women's final, in that it was flashed by the first three climbers and topped on the second attempt by the remaining three. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra (CZE) was in the lead after the first three boulders, with two flashes and a third attempt, but Jernej Kruder (SLO) turned the tables on problem 4; a compression-style climb with tricky toe and heel hooks on volumes. Seemingly nervous, Adam slipped off the start holds, costing him a valuable attempt. This appeared to unsettle him, and he failed to complete it within the three attempts required to win. Jernej's flash of problem 4 - which nobody else topped - showed that the reigning 2018 overall IFSC Boulder World Cup champion hasn't lost his form.

Watch the replays below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2019

Results


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 62 posts 8 videos

Janja Garnbret
Šmartno pri Slovenj Gradcu


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15 Apr, 2019

Just a small technical problem - the result tables are really hard to see (white text on bright colour background) when the site is switched to Dark mode. Same with the previous news article from Meiringen (and presumably others as well?). It would be nice to use inverted colours for the highlighted result table background instead. Thanks :)

Screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/dVhXVZK

Thanks, I'll add some dark mode CSS for these tomorrow.

6 May, 2019

Great, thanks :)

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