Silver for Shauna Coxsey in IFSC Boulder World Cup Moscow

Team GB's Shauna Coxsey managed one step higher on the podium this weekend in Moscow, placing 2nd behind Slovenia's Janja Garnbret. The 26 year-old finished 3rd just one week ago in Meiringen, Switzerland (UKC news report).

16-year-old GB Team member Emily Phillips impressed by qualifying in 2nd place in her group, behind Janja Garnbret and ahead of Shauna and other regular finalists. Emily finished 10th overall after the semi finals. A lack of top Japanese athletes (notably Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki, who are resting ahead of the Chinese rounds and Miho Nonaka, who is currently injured) left the field more open.

Many athletes were also competing in speed for the first time as part of their Tokyo 2020 selection preparation. Emily placed 52nd and Shauna 58th, while William Bosi and Billy Ridal placed 54th and 56th respectively.

In the women's final, a set of problems that appeared too easy resulted in 4 tops each from the first three athletes, and 3 tops each from the remaining climbers. Shauna, Janja and Fanny Gibert (FRA) flashed the first boulder, putting Shauna into a provisional lead on countback to the semi-finals. All six women flashed problem 2, which effectively became obsolete for separating the athletes. Both Slovenians Janja and Lucka Rakovec flashed problem three, which involved a tricky coordination move on a slab. Shauna required 2 attempts and Fanny 3. The final problem mirrored the third, with a similar coordination move and compression finish on slightly steeper ground. Janja, Fanny and Lucka flashed it, while Shauna misread her first attempt and reached the zone and top on her second. Janja took gold, Shauna silver and Fanny bronze.

Shauna Coxsey competing in the Moscow semi-finals.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Shauna Coxsey competing in the Moscow semi-finals.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Writing on Instagram, Shauna commented: 'So outrageously psyched right now! Another World Cup and another medal! So unbelievably happy to be walking away with silver after an epic event.'

The men's final was more of a spectacle, with the winner being decided on the final boulder. Problem 2 was similar to the second of the women's final, in that it was flashed by the first three climbers and topped on the second attempt by the remaining three. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra (CZE) was in the lead after the first three boulders, with two flashes and a third attempt, but Jernej Kruder (SLO) turned the tables on problem 4; a compression-style climb with tricky toe and heel hooks on volumes. Seemingly nervous, Adam slipped off the start holds, costing him a valuable attempt. This appeared to unsettle him, and he failed to complete it within the three attempts required to win. Jernej's flash of problem 4 - which nobody else topped - showed that the reigning 2018 overall IFSC Boulder World Cup champion hasn't lost his form.

Watch the replays below:

Results

WOMEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 2T3z 8 9
2 Shauna Coxsey GBR 2T3z 5 7
3 Fanny Gibert FRA 1T4z 3 10
4 Lucka Rakovec SLO 1T2z 4 5
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 1T2z 2 3
6 Futaba Ito JPN 0T3z 0 6
7 Sol SA KOR 0T3z 0 10
8 Petra Klingler SUI 0T2z 0 3
9 Alannah Yip CAN 0T2z 0 4
10 Emily Phillips GBR 0T2z 0 6
10 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 0T2z 0 6
12 Sandra Lettner AUT 0T2z 0 9
13 YueTong Zhang CHN 0T2z 0 11
14 Irina Kuzmenko RUS 0T1z 0 1
14 Afra Hönig GER 0T1z 0 1
16 Kyra Condie USA 0T1z 0 2
17 Natalia Grossman USA 0T1z 0 3
17 Johanna Färber AUT 0T1z 0 3
19 Katja Kadic SLO 0T1z 0 4
20 Berit Schwaiger AUT 0T0z 0 0
29 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 3T5z 11 10
50 Joanna Neame GBR Qual' 2T3z 5 9
Full results

MEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Jernej Kruder SLO 2T4z 7 6
2 Adam Ondra CZE 4T4z 9 6
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 2T4z 5 7
4 Anze Peharc SLO 2T4z 5 5
5 Rei Kawamata JPN 2T4z 3 15
6 Vadim Timonov RUS 2T4z 6 6
7 Manuel Cornu FRA 2T4z 13 16
8 Yuji INOUE JPN 2T3z 6 6
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1T4z 1 6
10 Jongwon CHON KOR 1T4z 1 9
11 Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 1T4z 2 4
12 Jan Hojer GER 1T4z 2 9
13 Nikolai Iarilovets RUS 1T4z 3 8
14 Alban Levier FRA 1T4z 3 9
15 Alexander Megos GER 1T4z 4 5
16 Rei Sugimoto JPN 0T4z 0 6
17 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 0T4z 0 15
18 Mickael Mawem FRA 0T3z 0 5
19 Tomoaki Takata JPN 0T3z 0 9
20 Alex Khazanov ISR 0T3z 0 15
25 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 1T4z 1 13
29 William Bosi GBR Qual' 3T4z 6 5
35 William Ridal GBR Qual' 1T3z 3 10
65 James Pope GBR Qual' 0T2z 0 5
88 Max Ayrton GBR Qual' 0T0z 0 0
Full results

MEN speed

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Bassa Mawem FRA 5.792
2 Vladislav Deulin RUS 6.021
3 Aspar Jaelolo INA 6.780
4 Long CAO CHN 5.797
5 Aleksandr Shikov RUS 5.891
6 Sergey Rukin RUS 5.908
7 Reza Alipourshena. IRI 5.922
8 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 5.927
9 Aleksandr Shilov RUS 6.068
10 Stanislav Kokorin RUS 6.094
11 Amir Maimuratov KAZ 6.096
12 Gian Luca Zodda ITA 6.310
13 Georgy Artamonov RUS 6.804
14 Ludovico Fossali ITA 6.960
15 Jan Kriz CZE 7.665
16 Lev Rudatskiy RUS 7.681
17 Marcin Dzienski POL
18 Fatchur Roji INA
19 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
20 Joe Goodacre USA
54 William Bosi GBR Qual' 7.725
56 William Ridal GBR Qual' 7.736
Full results

WOMEN speed

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 YiLing SONG CHN 7.668
2 Anouck Jaubert FRA 8.372
3 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 7.721
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS 8.036
5 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 7.990
6 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 7.792
7 Aleksandra Kalucka POL 8.639
8 Elena Remizova RUS 8.159
9 Aurelia Sarisson FRA 8.341
10 Anna Calanca ITA 8.477
11 Patrycja Chudziak POL 8.480
12 Andrea Rojas ECU 8.614
13 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS 8.815
14 MingWei NI CHN 10.019
15 Anna Brozek POL 10.419
16 Mariia Krasavina RUS fall
17 Polina Aksenova RUS
18 Kseniia Petrova RUS
19 Polina Kulagina RUS
20 Victoire Andrier FRA
52 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 10.970
58 Shauna Coxsey GBR Qual' 11.274
Full results


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016

Shauna's Athlete Page 13 posts 1 video



15 Apr

Just a small technical problem - the result tables are really hard to see (white text on bright colour background) when the site is switched to Dark mode. Same with the previous news article from Meiringen (and presumably others as well?). It would be nice to use inverted colours for the highlighted result table background instead. Thanks :)

Screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/dVhXVZK