IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup 2019: Wujiang - Report

The fourth round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup and the third round of the Speed World Cup 2019 took place in Wujiang, China last weekend. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) won the men's Boulder event and Janja Garnbret (SLO) continued her winning streak, taking home her fourth gold medal of the season. In the speed competition, Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) and Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) won gold.

Janja Garnbret reigns supreme once again.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme once again.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

No Brits progressed to the semi-finals in bouldering, but Emily Phillips broke her British women's speed record which she set just one week ago in Chongqing (10.898 seconds), hitting the buzzer in 10.731 seconds. Records and personal bests for multiple nations and athletes have been broken so far this season as more emphasis has been placed on the speed discipline ahead of Tokyo 2020.

Womens boulder podium, Wujiang.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Womens boulder podium, Wujiang.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the boulder finals, Japan once again occupied a considerable portion of the final spots, with 7 athletes making the cut. The youngest competitor in the final - competing in her first ever boulder World Cup - was current Youth World Champion Ai Mori (JPN). She smoothly topped the first boulder, despite her height forcing her to work harder to catch the crux coordination move. Julia Chanourdie (FRA) was competing in her first boulder World Cup final and proved that she is not only an elite level lead athlete. Janja Garnbret (SLO) misjudged the coordination move, while Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) flashed the problem with ease. Her compatriot Miho Nonaka (JPN) - the reigning Boulder World Cup champion - was competing in her first World Cup of the season, having suffered with a shoulder injury for the past couple of months. Although not 100% back to full fitness, Nonaka achieved 2 tops and 4 zones to place 4th. Mori impressed with 3 top and 4 zones, earning her a bronze medal in her first ever World Cup. Garnbret was the only athlete to top problem 2, earning her the gold medal. Noguchi took silver with 3 tops and 4 zones. Austria's Jessica Pilz placed 5th.

Men's boulder podium, Wujiang.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Men's boulder podium, Wujiang.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The men's final saw fewer tops and a Japanese-dominated field, with 4 of 6 athletes qualifying alongside Jakob Schubert (AUT) and Jan Hojer (GER). Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) was the only competitor to successfully top problem 1 and managed two further tops, putting in him in a strong position for the win. Compatriot Kai Harada pushed Narasaki, narrowly missing out on gold due to a higher total number of attempts. An appeal was made and won after judges initially denied him a top on M3 - a tricky slab with a tenuous finishing position. The judges awarded him a top and he placed 2nd behind Narasaki. Jakob Schubert completed the podium in 3rd - his first boulder World Cup podium of the season.

The next round is in Munich, Germany, on 18th and 19th May.

Results

WOMEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4T4z 6 4
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3T3z 5 3
3 Ai Mori JPN 2T4z 3 12
4 Miho Nonaka JPN 3T4z 3 6
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 3T4z 5 8
6 Julia Chanourdie FRA 2T4z 5 11
7 Futaba Ito JPN 2T4z 7 9
8 Sol SA KOR 2T3z 4 4
9 Elnaz Rekabi IRI 2T3z 7 7
10 Petra Klingler SUI 1T4z 4 6
11 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 1T2z 2 4
12 Mao Nakamura JPN 1T2z 5 2
13 Katja Kadic SLO 0T4z 0 6
13 Fanny Gibert FRA 0T4z 0 6
15 Lucka Rakovec SLO 0T4z 0 7
16 YueTong Zhang CHN 0T4z 0 9
17 Alannah Yip CAN 0T4z 0 10
18 Hung Ying Lee TPE 0T3z 0 6
18 Naile Meignan FRA 0T3z 0 6
20 Flavy Cohaut FRA 0T2z 0 5
27 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 2T4z 3 5
45 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 1T3z 2 11
51 Tara Hayes GBR Qual' 0T4z 0 13
51 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR Qual' 0T4z 0 13
59 Joanna Neame GBR Qual' 1T1z 2 2
Full results

MEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3T4z 13 5
2 Kai Harada JPN 3T3z 9 8
3 Jakob Schubert AUT 2T3z 3 3
4 Keita Dohi JPN 2T3z 10 5
5 Kokoro Fujii JPN 3T4z 11 10
6 Jan Hojer GER 2T3z 3 4
7 Rei Sugimoto JPN 1T4z 8 13
8 YuFei Pan CHN 1T3z 3 7
9 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 1T3z 4 6
10 Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 1T3z 8 6
11 Jongwon CHON KOR 1T2z 2 2
12 Nathaniel Coleman USA 1T2z 3 4
13 Sergei Skorodumov RUS 1T2z 6 6
14 Adam Ondra CZE 0T3z 0 3
15 Gregor Vezonik SLO 0T3z 0 4
16 Jernej Kruder SLO 0T3z 0 5
17 Meichi Narasaki JPN 0T2z 0 2
17 Alban Levier FRA 0T2z 0 2
19 Vadim Timonov RUS 0T2z 0 3
20 Anze Peharc SLO 0T1z 0 1
25 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 4T5z 8 7
29 William Bosi GBR Qual' 4T5z 11 8
45 William Ridal GBR Qual' 3T4z 6 4
55 James Pope GBR Qual' 2T4z 4 8
59 David Barrans GBR Qual' 1T5z 2 11
Full results

MEN speed

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 5.856
2 Bassa Mawem FRA 5.889
3 Ludovico Fossali ITA 6.066
4 Reza Alipourshena. IRI 5.904
5 Vladislav Deulin RUS 6.015
6 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR 5.984
7 Jan Kriz CZE 6.034
8 ZhiXing CHEN CHN 6.438
9 Fatchur Roji INA 6.002
10 Alfian Muhammad INA 6.064
11 PengHui LIN CHN 6.114
12 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS 6.129
13 Marcin Dzienski POL 6.202
14 Aleksandr Shilov RUS 6.440
15 Aspar Jaelolo INA 7.097
16 ZhiYong Ou CHN 8.354
17 John Brosler USA
18 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
19 Carlos Granja ECU
20 JinBao LONG CHN
37 William Bosi GBR Qual' 7.095
50 William Ridal GBR Qual' 7.634
78 David Barrans GBR Qual' 9.688
Full results

WOMEN speed

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Aleksandra Rudzinska POL 7.541
2 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 8.197
3 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.927
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS 7.838
5 Patrycja Chudziak POL 8.028
6 Di Niu CHN 8.148
7 Aurelia Sarisson FRA 8.275
8 Aleksandra Kalucka POL 9.173
9 MingWei NI CHN 8.080
10 PeiYang TIAN CHN 8.226
11 Elena Timofeeva RUS 8.673
12 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 8.985
13 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 8.991
14 Anna Brozek POL 9.038
15 Andrea Rojas ECU 9.807
16 YiLing SONG CHN 13.652
17 Victoire Andrier FRA
18 Natalia Kalucka POL
19 Iqamah Nurul INA
20 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS
46 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 10.731
64 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 13.070
Full results


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