UKC

adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 - Report

© adidas ROCKSTARS

The 2019 adidas ROCKSTARS event in Stuttgart, Germany took place over the weekend, where climbing and music are mixed to create a spectacular, one-of-a-kind competition. The competition is invite-only, but some participants earned a place by competing in national 'Ticket to ROCKSTARS' competitions across the globe. A stacked field of future Olympians and IFSC circuit legends took part to fight for the ROCKSTARS title alongside some strong amateurs.

The finalists line up as rock music fills the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart.  © adidas ROCKSTARS
The finalists line up as rock music fills the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart.
© adidas ROCKSTARS

After the qualification and semi-final rounds, the top 6 athletes competed in an unusual final format. The first two boulders are attempted by all six athletes, before the three lowest-ranking athletes are eliminated ahead of boulder 3. The top two climbers after the third boulder progress to a superfinal, where athletes race to complete an identical boulder problem and hit the buzzer.

Janja Garnbret placed 2nd in the superfinal after dominating the semi-final round.  © adidas ROCKSTARS
Janja Garnbret placed 2nd in the superfinal after dominating the semi-final round.
© adidas ROCKSTARS

Futaba Ito (JPN) managed to outsmart 2019 Boulder World Cup winner and triple World Champion Janja Garnbret (SLO) on the head-to-head superfinal problem to hit the buzzer first. 16-year-old Ai Mori (JPN) finished 3rd. The men were faced with a jamming crack in boulder 3, which was skilfully surpassed by Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN) and Florian Klingler (AUT) by dynoing to the top of the wall. In the men's superfinal, the boulder initially proved to be too difficult. The routesetters made a slight alteration, which was ultimately ignored by Ogata, who skipped the additional crimp and quickly topped ahead of opponent Klingler. Jongwon Chon (KOR) placed 3rd.

Yoshiyuki Ogata was on form in the final and superfinal.  © adidas ROCKSTARS
Yoshiyuki Ogata was on form in the final and superfinal.
© adidas ROCKSTARS

British athletes achieved some strong positions, with Shauna Coxsey finishing 5th, Alex Waterhouse 9th and Nathan Phillips 22nd.

Results

Women TOP 6:

1 - Futaba Ito (JPN)

2 - Janja Garnbret (SLO)

3 - Ai Mori (JPN)

4 - Miho Nonaka (JPN)

5 - Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

6 - Lucka Rakovec (SLO)

Jongwon Chon (KOR) attacks the crack - boulder 3 in the men's final.  © adidas ROCKSTARS
Jongwon Chon (KOR) attacks the crack - boulder 3 in the men's final.
© adidas ROCKSTARS

Results Men TOP 6:

1 - Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN)

2 - Florian Klingler (AUT)

3 - Jongwon Chon (KOR)

4 - Kai Harada (JPN)

5 - Kokoro Fujii (JPN)

6 - Gregor Vezonik (SLO)

Watch the superfinal and final replays below:


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