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Lockdown - Free Trad Climbing Films to get you through isolationVideo

© Hot Aches Productions

Is this a kind of torture? None of us can climb at the moment, but that doesn't mean we can't spend hours poring over climbing videos on the net. This list is devoted to trad climbing and there's an eclectic mix of shorts, features and straight up footage. Tell us some of your favourites in the comments below and stay tuned for next week's sport climbing list.

Dave MacLeod climbs The Indian Face

Featured as an extra on Hot Aches Productions' Long Hope DVD this tells the tale of Dave MacLeod climbing the world's most notorious E9 "Indian Face". First put up by Johnny Dawes in the 80s, it's still recognised as a test piece to any modern climber!

E9 6c

Titled in reference to The Indian Face, E9 6c gives us an insight into the mindset of top 80s climbers John Redhead and Johnny Dawes and their battle of ethics.

Dynamics of Change

'On top rope!' Pete Whittaker takes the action to Burbage South with his ascent of Dynamics of Change – a desperate E9 6c which has still only seen one repeat 13 years later.

The Long Hope Excerpt

St John's head on the Island of Hoy is a wild and remote 1150 foot sea cliff. It was first climbed in 1970 by climber and poet Ed Drummond together with Oliver Hill. They took 7 days to climb the cliff, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks along the way. 40 years later, Dave MacLeod sets out to climb the cliff in a single day, finishing with a new desperately hard final pitch up the headwall.

The Walk of Life

A look back at James Pearson's First Ascent of The Walk of Life E9, with a particularly impressive fall!

Once Upon a Time in the Southwest

Hazel Findlay became the first woman to climb an E9 with her ascent of Once Upon A Time In The Southwest at Dyer's Lookout.

Without a Partner: Pete Whittaker Rope Solos Freerider

In November 2016, Pete Whittaker became the first person to solo - all free - El Capitan in under 24 hours, finishing in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Rope Solo Free climbing is a sport that few people know about and even fewer people do. We hear from Pete Whittaker, his long time climbing partner Tom Randall and Big wall solo climbing expert Andy Kirkpatrick as they take us through the paces of what it really means to make a rope-solo-free ascent of El Cap.

Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon Interview

Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon chat about the special magic of climbing on Cloggy. Taken from Niall Grimes' Jam Crack Podcast. WARNING: CONTAINS SWEARING (AND JOHNNY DAWES).

Consumed

Hard Grit's ravey younger brother. There's an absurd amount of E numbers in this gritstone porno.

Eden

Eden is set around a little known crag close to Carlisle called Armathwaite, it was a meeting place and training venue for the Penrith and Carlisle teams who were looking to make their mark on the British crags.

The film features Pete Whillance, Pete Botteril, Charlie Woodburn and Pete Gunn and is a tribute to a much loved character who changed the face of British climbing, Jeff Lamb.

Dan Varian climbs The Prow at Kyloe in the Woods

The route was originally climbed by Andy Earl at the grade of E9 6c and was repeated by Dan Varian and Ned Feehally in 2011. Differing slightly from Andy's ascent, they chose to climb the route above pads, after minimal top rope inspection.

Ringlock Ranch with Mason Earle

Mason Earle has been driving force in the desert and has spent many years searching the canyons of Utah for new routes. Over the past decade he has established some of the area's most best climbs.

Hard Rock: A Tribute to Ken Wilson

Many books have been written about British climbing, but one stands head-and-shoulders above the rest: the iconic Hard Rock, compiled by Ken Wilson. It might have first hit the shelves in 1974, but this feast of climbing literature has weathered the following years as easily as a granite crag.

Grave Diggers (E8) - an excerpt from 'On Sight'

Pete Robins, James McHaffie, Neil Dickson and Jack Geldard take it in turns to peer pressure each other into ground up ascents of Grave Diggers.

Of Choss and Lions

Two of America's boldest rock climbers and self-proclaimed fashionistas, Alex Honnold & Cedar Wright, travel to Kenya's Mt. Poi. The guys dodge choss, wild animals and general debauchery to claim ascents of Africa's biggest big wall. It's, uh, character building.

The Hulk – with Lisa Rands and Peter Croft

Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada.

Charlie Woodburn climbs Central Buttress

Charlie Woodburn climbing Central Buttress, Scafell, Lake District 102 years after it was originally climbed. He takes a look back at the history of this route and its first ascensionist, Siegfried Herford. Herford climbed Britain's first E1 but his life was sadly cut short like many other young men by the first world war.

Middlefell Buttress

Dorothy Russell and Judith Brown return to one of their favourite routes in the Lake District: Middlefell Buttress.

The Gritual

The Gritual captures one season on the God's own rock: loved by many and feared by more.


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27 Mar, 2020

'Some Shit New Climbers' is also well worth a watch:

https://vimeo.com/110715065

Big, bold and plenty of hard grit e-grades.

27 Mar, 2020
28 Mar, 2020

Thank you, really enjoyed "Eden", great film about a great location and a great person. Thanks for posting. Will definately get back to Armathwaite after all this is over.

S

28 Mar, 2020

I like the video of Black Bean at Ceuse done on trad.

https://youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs

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