UKC

Catherine Destivelle to receive Lifetime Achievement Piolet d'Or

© René Robert

French climber and alpinist Catherine Destivelle has been named as the 2020 recipient of the Piolet d'Or Carrière, or Lifetime Achievement Award, for her accomplishments within and contributions to the world of alpinism. Destivelle is the first woman to be honoured with this award since its inception in 2009.

Catherine Destivelle - recipient of the 2020 Piolet d'Or Carrière.  © René Robert
Catherine Destivelle - recipient of the 2020 Piolet d'Or Carrière.
© René Robert

The Piolet d'Or Carrière was created to honour an alpinist or mountaineer whose career has inspired following generations, in adherence to a particular set of criteria outlined by the Piolets d'Or charter.

Catherine Destivelle was a sport climbing superstar in the discipline's golden age of the 1980s. Although she received much media attention for becoming the first woman to redpoint 8a and through her multiple competition wins, including victory at the very first international event, Sportroccia (now Rock Master) in Italy in 1985 and Jeff Lowe's famous 1989 event in Snowbird, USA, Destivelle's climbing roots were in alpinism. She began climbing in Fontainebleau at the age of 12 and made secret excursions to the Mont Blanc massif with older climbers - unbeknown to her parents - where she climbed some of the biggest routes in the range as a teenager.

In 1990, Destivelle quit climbing competitions to focus on rock and alpine ascents. She made her mountain comeback with a solo ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru and established a new route on the west face of the Petit Dru over 11 days, before completing a solo winter trilogy; the north face of the Eiger in 1992, the Walker Spur on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 1993, and the Bonatti route on the north face of the Matterhorn in 1994.

Destivelle's bio by Claude Gardien on the Piolet d'Or website notes:

'This latter route is still rarely climbed today. It was her second big Bonatti route and the first time a woman had climbed at such a high standard in the Alps. However, Catherine didn't just want to be known as an accomplished female climber, she wanted her performances to be measured against those of any alpinist, no matter their gender. How many people could claim to operate at this standard? Catherine had proved that women could climb just as hard as men.'

Using the skills she had developed in Europe, Destivelle moved into the realm of high-altitude alpinism. In the Himalaya and Karakoram, she made the second free ascent of the Slovenian Route on Trango Tower, climbed the southwest face to the summit ridge of Xixabangma, and attempted the south face of Annapurna, the west pillar of Makalu, and the north ridge of Latok I. In Antarctica, she made two significant first ascents in the Sentinel Range.

Having achieved so much in the mountains, Destivelle turned her attention to writing about her own adventures in an autobiography and sharing those of others upon founding her own publishing house, Les Éditions du Mont Blanc, based near Chamonix.

'As with mountain climbing, [Destivelle] has gone on to leave her mark in the publishing world. Her creed has always been to keep moving forwards, without ever worrying about her status as an alpinist or an editor,' the Piolet d'Or bio reads.

Destivelle will be honoured at the 2020 Piolets d'Or Awards ceremony at the 25th edition of the Ladek Mountain Film Festival in Poland, 11-22 September, either in person or virtually, depending on the COVID-19 situation.


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21 Jul, 2020

Well deserved.

Only met her once.

In 85, I was at Mouries without a topo.

This girl started climbing, I thought if she can ,I can. So me and Ian did a load of routes just after she led them.

This went on for a dozen or so routes, with a bit of banter and chat. I did not realise her identity until she stripped down to a t shirt and I recognised her biceps. She was made up when I explained I lived in Cumbria and knew Bill Birkett. My poor French could not explain that he had been my best man at our wedding however.

Anyway after her warm up she went on to climb some hard routes.

21 Jul, 2020

Bloody well deserved and to a lovely person too : )

Well done Catherine xx

22 Jul, 2020

That's really great news... Time to re-download Grimer's interview with her on Jam Crack Podcast and listen to it again :)

24 Jul, 2020

Lovely news.

24 Jul, 2020

Yeah but whats she ever done on hard Orcadian Sandstone? Oh...

Met her once in the Dolomites where she was on holiday with her family. She was at a little cafe we went to after a few days climbing around the Tre Cime - and none of us recognised her. She asked us what we'd done, we told her (our very modest) achievements, she told us they had done the Yellow Edge which we were impressed with and then we just sat the shooting the breeze. They went on their way, we carried on walking and after about 20 minutes Bill said to me he thought he recognised her and I said yeah her face was familiar, and then it dawned on us who she was. As you say, a very lovely lady.

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