This week's ticklist is another mixed bag of varied ascents from the UK and further afield...
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey soloed in 1:30:14 by Filip Babicz
Polish climber Filip Babicz, who is based in the Aosta Valley, soloed up the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in a staggering 1 hour, 30 minutes and 14 seconds. The previous record was 2 hours 45 minutes.
Just one month prior to this ascent, Filip soloed and made the first repeat of the marathon Alpine route and 'longest ridge in the Alps' - the Integralissima de Peuterey, in a mind-blowing 17 hours. Some context: the route is 8000m long with > 4000m of altitude gain and involves 900m of abseiling. It follows the Peuterey Ridge from the bottom of the valley, up through Mont Rouge, Tête de Chasseurs, Aiguille Noire, Dames Anglaises, Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pillier d'Angle, Monte Bianco di Courmayeur and up to the summit of Mont Blanc.
🇬🇧 ▶️▶️▶️▶️ ONE THIRTY FOURTEEN ! These were the first words after having regained my breath on the summit of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, right after I had set the NEW RECORD of South Ridge : 1h30'14'' ⏱🚀!! ◀️◀️◀️◀️ . I beat the previous record (2h45') by 1h15' 😳! The ascent was performed without any deposits nor support. . 1400 m long, the ridge is beyond any doubt one of the most beautiful and the most famous of alpine ridges. Back in 80', there was a restless struggle of ascending routes in fastest time possible and the ridge was a touchstone, like The Nose on El Capitan. Taking under consideration the tendency at the time to determine the approximate results, the fastest known time (2h45') was established not by one, but by four alpinists. They were, as follows: Renato Casarotto, 30th Aug. 1981; Yves Astier and Marc Boucesand, 11th Jul. 1982 and same team again, untied, 15th Aug. 1983; Jean Marc Boivin, 27th Jul. 1983. . Their time, 2h45', seemed like 'a wall', impossible to be broken. Nowadays, it takes from 12 to 14 hours to the efficent team to ascend. Ueli Steck, fast & light alpinism star made it in 3h20' (while setting the current record on Integrale de Peuterey, 11h30' in 2013). . 2 months ago I decided to try and break 'the wall'. I'd previously sent the route just once in 2017. Recently I performed it five subsequent times, trying to assess my possibilities. I assumed I would make it between 2h15' (highly optimistic) and 2h55' (no record). . Then, on Aug. 27th the time came to verify. I started exactly at 4 pm. One and a half hour later I stopped the watch, astounded by the measurement, embracing the statue of Virgin Mary on the summit. I could't believe my eyes: I beat the record by one hour and fifteen minutes which is almost a half of it 😳! An unimaginable became real!!!💪💪 . I bid a great thank you to the people who tried to document the moment: @vincevaltu, Antonio Rosano, @guidemontblanc and @florentpedrini . For 🇵🇱 and 🇮🇹 see comments below. 📸 1, 3, 5 @vincevaltu 📸 2, 4 @verticalflow #formanaszczyt #ebclimbing #eliteclimb #wearebeal #polskihimalaizmzimowy #peuterey #montblanc #record #fastestknowntime
Dave MacLeod E8 FA and Repeat
Returning to his pre-lockdown haunt, Dave MacLeod added a new E8 6c to Binnein Shuas, which he has named The Great Reset. Not long after, he also made the second ascent of Iain Small's Shuas line Go Hard Go Early E8 6c.
Yesss! New E8 6c done yesterday at Shuas. Video on the way... Unseasonably cold up there just now. It feels like boulder/sport project season is not far away. Still some work to do in training to be ready. But this was a good start and I felt surprisingly stronger than expected on it. #tradclimbing #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #meclimbing #lasportivauk
Pembroke E8 double by James McHaffie
After being inspired by Emma Twyford's ascent a few weeks ago, James McHaffie returned to Pembroke and went home with two E8s in hand: Do You Know Where Your Children Are E8 6c and Nothing to Fear E8 6c.
@mike.hutton.771 and @ray_wood s pics of Do you know where your children are and Nothing to Fear in Huntsmans Leap. @bbsparrowguns Chupacabra is the last toughy left to do in the Leap. Done when he was a teenager with minimal inspection he couldn't fiddle in the critical cam that protects the crux runout so carried on with a potential monster fall if he'd fluffed it. I'll be back to do this soon and will be more than twice the age when he 1st did it. Happy 41st for Penfold Bransby today too.
Jeremy Bonder repeats Satan I Helevete 8C
French boulderer Jeremy Bonder has made the first repeat of Oriane Bertone's proposed 8C Satan I Helvete Bas in Fontainebleau, which has a direct and different finish to Alban Levier's original line. Commenting on Instagram, Jeremy explained that he struggled to decide on the grade as the problem suits him, but that he had discussed it with Oriane.
Aujourd'hui petite sortie en forêt après de nombreuses semaines... 😁 Je parviens à répéter Satan I Helvete Bas 8C qu'Oriane Bertone avait réalisé avec une sortie directe et différente de celle d'Alban Levier. 😉 Après avoir fait beaucoup de séances et plusieurs essais à me découper les doigts, je suis bien content d'arriver à bout de ce bloc ! 👊 Je vais pouvoir passer à d'autres projets... 😉 Merci à Ludo de m'avoir accompagné à ces nombreuses séances 🙏 . #arkose #snap #ffme #ffmeoccitanie #lasportiva #bethbyarkose #bup #beal
Odysee repeat on Eiger North face
Not content with completing the Alpine Trilogy by bike (and with their dogs in tow) and the hard multipitch Headless Children in just two weeks, Belgian duo Nico Favresse and Séb Berthe decided to head for the North Face of the Eiger, where they made a one-day free ascent of its hardest route, Odysee (8a+, 1400m). The pair took 18 hours to complete the line, and Nico made a fall-free ascent by either onsighting or flashing all 33 pitches. Seems like the crux of their trip was arranging doggy daycare...
As the🍒 on top of a cake @sebertheclimber and I just finished our bike &dog #zeroco2 climbing journey with a one day free ascent of what has been called the hardest rock route on the Eiger's north face - "Odyssee" ✅ With the trilogy completed faster than expected, still some power left in our legs and a rare weather window on the Eiger's North face, Odyssee was an obvious next target 🎯 on our adventure trying to save some CO2. 3 years ago @stephane.hanssens and I had attempted it but had to bail at pitch 13 when the route turned into a waterfall and clouds started to spit on us. At the time I had not fallen on a single pitch while switching lead with @stephane.hanssens and swore I would come back to try this 33 pitches route free in a single day. With the best partner I could have hoped for and a perfect preparation with the trilogy under our belts, we started climbing at 4 am with our headlamps to finally reached the top around 22h completely exhausted and frozen but with the free ascent in our pocket. Not only that, I was really happy to complete a fall free ascent with onsighting or flashing every single pitch of the route 🤙 Odyssee is an amazing route! Congratulations to the @rogerschaeli , @robertjasper_official and @gietlsimon for putting up the route in such a cool and logical style keeping the Eiger's north face adventure alive ! Thank you to @mario_heller for hosting us in Interlaken with the dogs and all the mess that goes with it and for finding the greatest dogsitter to keep our dogs happy. Cheers to @nilsfavre, @inespapert , @symon9v , @caronorthofficial, @babsizangerl , @jacopolarcher and @damienlargeron who also made a great effort on the wall and contributed to having the best time up there! #actfortheplanet #noplacetoofar #act_for_summits @patagonia @patagoniaeurope @patagonia_climb @scarpaspa @petzl_official @arkose.climbing @julbo_eyewear @lyofood @samaya_equipment @hard.bar @agripp_climbingholds
Stew Watson climbs 'Kein Licht Kein Schatten' 9a
Ex-pat Stew Watson, who lives in Austria, has climbed Jakob Schubert's Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a, his second of the grade. The route at Elenfantenwand in Ötztal was bolted by Heiko Wilhelm in 2016 and Stew put some effort in whilst it was still a project, but deemed it too difficult at the time. Stew wrote:
'Clipping the chains a few weeks ago closed a chapter that has involved lots of effort juggling family, work and climbing where I hope I got the balance just right.'
'Kein Licht Kein Schatten' at Elefantenwand in Ötztal is a route bolted by @wilhelmheiko and first climbed by @jakob.schubert back in 2016. I tried the route when it was still a project some time back but deemed it too hard for me and moved onto other routes in Ötztal. It was interesting going back to it once it had been climbed and I can safely say it is Ötztal's hardest existing route to date. Clipping the chains a few weeks ago closed a chapter that has involved lots of effort juggling family, work and climbing where I hope I got the balance just right. Thanks to @leomoser2708 and @klockertom for all the support! I am looking forward to watching you progress in this amazing sport. Next up is my Red Wall project...
9a by Mina Markovič
Mina Markovič has been on form in Osp, Slovenia, where she has redpointed Waterworld (9a). Klemen Bečan bolted the route in 2014 and Markovič has been attempting the route since early summer this year. Eventually, she redpointed the route in 30-degree heat!
Back in July, Markovič also redpointed Halupca 1979 at the same cave in Misja Pec. The three-time Lead World Cup winner has now redpointed three 9as in total.
Halupca 1979. . At the beginning, I thought 'Halupca' is going to be just a nice 'training' route. I have decided to try it, as I started to miss some 'action' and powerful moves, after climbing quite a lot at Osp's cave recently (where routes are mostly long and endurance related.) At the same time, I was also not really psyched to spend days in a gym alone or, neither to lose all my power 🤔. I didn't put a lot of attention on an idea or feel under pressure, to actually finish it. I was just enjoying the process of doing and connecting the moves. . Soon, I got the feeling, it could be possible for this piece to fall down. Honestly, didn't expect it to be so soon. I belive, it happenedn, as a reflection of my current mood and shape in last period. . Just after about 10 days since my 1st visit on the route and less than 15 tries, I have managed to link all the moves and find myself at the top. 💕 . Foto: @lukafonda . #foryourmountain #weareclimbers @lasportivagram @postanivojak @ars_pharmae @plusclimbing @climbskinspain #climbingoutdoor #climbingismypassion #outdoorlife
Rhos Frugtniet ticks Mecca 8b+
Bristol-based GB Team member Rhoslyn Frugtniet has continued her run of post-lockdown form after her recent ascent of Poppy 8b+/c at Anstey's Cove by climbing the Raven Tor classic Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+.
Footage of Brooke Raboutou on Jade (Font 8B+)
Brooke Raboutou has been in incredible form all summer and added to her ticklist with the classic Jade (8B+) in Upper Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park. This was the second female ascent after Alex Puccio climbed the line in 2014. Mellow have released the footage of Raboutou on the climb:
Footage of Laura Rogora on Ali Hullk Sit Extension Total (9b)
On the 25th July 2020, Laura Rogora became the 2nd women in the world to climb the grade of 9b. The route links a 15 move boulder problem into a 9a+ in Ali Baba's Cave in Rodellar, Spain.
Rogora goes into the Olympics next year as one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world, having climbing fourteen routes of 8c+/9a or harder.