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9a Flash for Alex Megos in Arco

© Alex Megos Collection

Alex Megos has flashed Underground (9a) in Arco, Italy. The route was first climbed by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 and was once considered the hardest route in Italy.

I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day. Turns out sometimes you just have to go for it! After doing "Claudio Caffè" second try this morning I thought I might as well just go for Underground today. Big thank you to @cesar_grosso for giving me perfect beta and showing me all the moves and to @dickikorb for standing in that hole to belay us. 🙏🏼 Here the last crux of the route on camera. Unfortunately we didn't film the whole send... 😔 @patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower

A post shared by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on

Commenting on his ascent, Alex said: 'I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day.'

He started the day by climbing Claudio Caffè (8c+) on his second attempt, before getting the 'perfect' beta for Underground from Cesar Grosso.

The route is the second 9a that the German superstar has done on his first attempt. In 2013, Megos onsighted Estado crítico at Siurana, Spain. Going for a slightly different approach on Underground, he got hold of all the beta he could and went for a flash instead of the onsight.

His flash of Underground tops off a superb summer for the 27-year-old. In early August, he climbed his first 9c (and the world's second) with his ascent of Bibliographie at Ceuse. A few days later, he made the second ascent of L'etrange Ivresse des Lentuers, a 9a+/9b of Adam Ondra's that has gone since 2010 without a repeat.


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 73 posts 3 videos


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15 Sep

A fantastic effort from Alex! Alex has commented this morning on the grade on 8a.nu:

"I think that 9a seems a bit over the top. 8c+/9a is more appropriate but it could as well only be 8c+. It's always hard to say if you only tried once."

Would it be worth amending the grade to 8c+/9a in the report?

15 Sep

I don't know how many people have climbed Underground, but would imagine it is at least 10. If 9 say 9a and Alex says 8c+ does that really warrant a downgrade? He's clearly in exceptional form at the moment so maybe hes just stronger than he thinks?

(Just to add, I don't know if any previous ascensionists have suggested a downgrade...)

15 Sep

The original grade given was 8c+/9a.

15 Sep

There are some comments providing some context on Alex's instagram post which are worth a read

15 Sep

Polyglottastic...

Allez

Come on

komm schon

Vamoose

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