UKC

9a Flash for Alex Megos in Arco

© Alex Megos Collection

Alex Megos has flashed Underground (9a) in Arco, Italy. The route was first climbed by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 and was once considered the hardest route in Italy.

I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day. Turns out sometimes you just have to go for it! After doing "Claudio Caffè" second try this morning I thought I might as well just go for Underground today. Big thank you to @cesar_grosso for giving me perfect beta and showing me all the moves and to @dickikorb for standing in that hole to belay us. 🙏🏼 Here the last crux of the route on camera. Unfortunately we didn't film the whole send... 😔 @patagonia_climb @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower

A post shared by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on

Commenting on his ascent, Alex said: 'I did many trips to Arco but I was always saving this one for a potential flash try. I thought maybe I would feel ready one day.'

He started the day by climbing Claudio Caffè (8c+) on his second attempt, before getting the 'perfect' beta for Underground from Cesar Grosso.

The route is the second 9a that the German superstar has done on his first attempt. In 2013, Megos onsighted Estado crítico at Siurana, Spain. Going for a slightly different approach on Underground, he got hold of all the beta he could and went for a flash instead of the onsight.

His flash of Underground tops off a superb summer for the 27-year-old. In early August, he climbed his first 9c (and the world's second) with his ascent of Bibliographie at Ceuse. A few days later, he made the second ascent of L'etrange Ivresse des Lentuers, a 9a+/9b of Adam Ondra's that has gone since 2010 without a repeat.


This post has been read 7,563 times

Return to Latest News


Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 77 posts 5 videos


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

15 Sep, 2020

A fantastic effort from Alex! Alex has commented this morning on the grade on 8a.nu:

"I think that 9a seems a bit over the top. 8c+/9a is more appropriate but it could as well only be 8c+. It's always hard to say if you only tried once."

Would it be worth amending the grade to 8c+/9a in the report?

15 Sep, 2020

I don't know how many people have climbed Underground, but would imagine it is at least 10. If 9 say 9a and Alex says 8c+ does that really warrant a downgrade? He's clearly in exceptional form at the moment so maybe hes just stronger than he thinks?

(Just to add, I don't know if any previous ascensionists have suggested a downgrade...)

15 Sep, 2020

The original grade given was 8c+/9a.

15 Sep, 2020

There are some comments providing some context on Alex's instagram post which are worth a read

15 Sep, 2020

Polyglottastic...

Allez

Come on

komm schon

Vamoose

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest