UKC

Hypnotized Minds (Font 8C+) for Matt FultzNewsflash

© Matt Fultz Collection

29-year-old Matt Fultz has made a rare ascent of Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds (Font 8C+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Fultz's was the 4th ascent after Russian climber Rustman Gelmanov made a quick ascent after a World Cup in Vail in 2016 and Dave Graham's repeat last year.

Hypnotized Minds (V16) 🥳🤯 A special moment. Just me, Hailey, and some snow. Such a process...In 2018 I made some big, promising links during just my 2nd session trying it. However, a few tries in I totally annihilated a pulley in my left index finger. Took months to heal. Took longer to mentally recover and decide to try Hypno again. Then followed hesitation, regression, doubt, bad weather, traveling for comps...the goal seemed to get further the more I tried it. But I continued to return with reckless optimism. Early Spring 2020 I made it to the last move and fell, but just days before I left for Switzerland. COVID hit, RMNP shut down, and I struggled with situational depression. I gained 10 pounds. Climbing was the last thing I wanted to do. Even still, I would run through the moves in my mind once each night before bed. As July rolled in and climbing outside was given the green light, motivation began to swell again. Everything in my control was directed toward improving my chances at Hypno in the Fall. Hailey helped me lose weight, @g1climbing and @tensionclimbing helped me train, and my clients at @otgstrength kept me motivated. My first day back on it 2 weeks ago, I quickly realized I could send it this season. A couple sessions (and splits) later, I fell off AFTER grabbing the lip 🤦‍♂️ and finally, yesterday, I found myself on top 2nd go of the day. Thanks to everyone for the support! It really means the world to me. I miss you and hope we can climb together again real soon. 1. @westmountainmedia shot of me working it a couple weeks ago. 2. Topping out on the send (I'm trying to decide what to do with the full send footage!)

A post shared by Matt Fultz (@matt_fultz) on

Back in 2018, Fultz made some 'promising links' in his second session, although in the same session he injured a pulley in his left index finger, putting him out of action for months. Writing on his Instagram, he said:

'Took longer to mentally recover and decide to try Hypno again. Then followed hesitation, regression, doubt, bad weather, traveling for comps...the goal seemed to get further the more I tried it. But I continued to return with reckless optimism. Early Spring 2020 I made it to the last move and fell, but just days before I left for Switzerland.'

Fultz struggled through the Coronavirus and ensuing park closures:

'COVID hit, RMNP shut down, and I struggled with situational depression. I gained 10 pounds. Climbing was the last thing I wanted to do. Even still, I would run through the moves in my mind once each night before bed.

'As July rolled in and climbing outside was given the green light, motivation began to swell again. Everything in my control was directed toward improving my chances at Hypno in the Fall.'

After a positive session two weeks ago, Fultz was heartened by his progress and came very close to climbing the problem before falling from the lip. Two days ago he found himself at the top of the boulder on his second attempt.

Fultz climbed his first 8C problem in 2019 with an ascent of Paint it Black in Rocky Mountain National Park. Since then, he has climbed 12 8Cs or harder.

Woods originally graded Hypnotized Minds Font 8C but upgraded it a few years later based on his subsequent experience. Below is a video of him climbing the problem in 2010:


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