This week's Ticklist covers some hard bouldering repeats from around the world and a scary trad video from Mr MacLeod:
Font 8B+ for Marine Thevenet
French climber Marine Thevenet has climbed her first Font 8B+ with an ascent of New Base Line in Magic Wood, Switzerland. The problem was originally graded 8C in 2002 by Bernd Zangerl but has settled at 8B+ in the years since. Marine's ascent was the sixth by a woman after Shauna Coxsey, Anna Stöhr, Alex Puccio, Mile Heyden and Linda Sjödin.
⭐️ New Base Line [8B+/V14] ✔️ An all time classic from 🌲#magicwood 🌲 A dreaming line for me since I spotted @clem_lechap on it few years ago. • 🦶Heel hook - 🤏 Crack - 🤸♀️Ninja - ✊Crimps - and... 🔝🎉 • Thank you @clem_lechap for your support and advices ❤️ and for the picture. • @unparallelup @moonclimbing @snowleader74
No Kpote Only for Nico Pelorson
In January 2019, barefoot climber Charles Albert made the first ascent of No Kpote Only at Rocher Brûlé, Fontainebleau. He suggested Font 9A for the problem, which would have been the second climb with that grade in the world (after Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams), although subsequent ascentionists - who have worn shoes - have suggested a downgrade. Ryohei Kameyama repeated the climb and suggested it could be nearer Font 8C+.
Nico Pelorson has now repeated the climb and suggested the grade could be 'solid 8C,' with slightly different beta and climbing shoes...
VIDEO: Dave MacLeod Repeating Iain Small's The End of Arms (E8 6c)
Jack Palmieri on form
British boulderer Jack Palmieri has been mopping up hard problems all over the north of England. In between showing Jim Pope the beta for everything, he's made quite a few hard ascents himself. Throughout September and the start of October, he spent a lot of time in the Lake District ticking off problems such as Colonel Hathi (8A+) at Swarthbeck Gill, Impropa Flip Flopera (8A+) and Final Flip Flopera (8B) at The Bowderstone, and Stellar Dweller at Sampson's Stones.
At Kilnsey, he ticked off Diluvian (8B), Primitive Notion (8A+), End Game (8B) and Antediluvian (8B) in the space of two weeks. Check out his Instagram page for an absurd amount of high-end British bouldering.
Stellar Dweller (8A+) everything you want in a problem, great location, brilliant moves, nice holds, a good height. Real happy to knock it off my list yesterday. Cheers to the gang for the psyche, and the friends that keep me positive when climbing doesn't feel easy. @moonclimbing @unparallelup @rhinoskinsolutions #moonclimbing #unparallelup #lakesbouldering #dogsofinstagram #nature
Rocky Mountain Bouldering
Last week we reported that Matt Fultz had repeated Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds (Font 8C+) and this week he's ticked another 8C with an ascent of Drew Ruana's Echalo. The line at Clear Creek Canyon adds a sit start to a Daniel Woods' Font 8B+ put up 15-years ago.
Quick send of Echalo (V15). Please don't look at my thighs. Nice new addition from @drewruana. Big respect to this guy, TBH he might be the best outdoor boulderer in the country right now. High start was put up by the 🐐 @dawoods89 15-ish years ago. Badass. @madrockclimbing @asanaclimbing @frictionlabs @tensionclimbing @craftedenergy @physivantage