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The Ticklist #13 - Hard Sport, Highball Bouldering and Horrendous Crack Climbing

© Babsi Zangerl Collection

In this week's Ticklist, we take a look at some hard sport ascents, Barbara Zangerl's ascent of Greenspit and the usual hard bouldering.

Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit

Babsi Zangerl has climbed Didier Berthod's desperate 8b crack line, Greenspit, in Valle dell'Orco. She is the first woman to repeat the stunning route, which was first climbed in 2003 with pre-placed gear and then again in 2005 where Berthod placed all the gear on lead.

The route took Babsi four days in total. Extra time was needed to strip the route between attempts so that she could place all the gear on lead.

Babsi is one of the most accomplished trad climbers in the world, having made ascents of Prinzip Hoffnung (E9/10 8b), Muy Caliente (E10), three free climbs on El Capitan and the renowned 'Alpine Trilogy.'

Niall McNair climbs The Young

Niall McNair has made a rare ascent of Andy Earl's The Young (Font 8A) at  Callaly, Northumberland. He's currently on a mission to tick the 'Earl Trilogy,' from which he's already ticked The Dark Side at Back Bowden, leaving him with The Prow at  Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

He first attempted the Young last year but shortly after had an accident with a machete at work, leaving him with a severed tendon in one finger. Unsure whether he would be able to climb again, Niall set to work on specific training and it's been quite a turnaround!

9a+/9b for Jonathan Siegrist

35-year-old American climber Jonathan Siegrist has made the first ascent of Nu World and could be in the 9a+/9b range. The route is on a limestone crag near Las Vegas and Siegrist has described the route as 'without question' one of his hardest. He is now working on a direct finish.

Siegrist has previously climbed two other 9bs with ascents of La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, and Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain, US.

From the brink of madness to complete elation.. Climbing has this special way of making us feel so deeply, all the while being somehow meaningless and yet also utterly everything at the same time. I gave a lot of mental, physical and emotional energy to this incredible route - and felt all of the ups and downs along the way. Very proud to say that it's done! 'Nu World' FA. Unsure on the grade yet. It's without question one of my absolute hardest, and in many ways it's just the beginning! Look to @epictvclimbing for a video short in the sometime soon(ish). Photo and video by @orographic_visual 🔭 emotional support by @shainasavoy 🖤 • @arcteryx @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing @maximropes @goclimbon @physivantage

A post shared by Jonathan Siegrist (@jonathansiegrist) on

Another 9a for Tom Bolger

Earlier this month, we reported that Tom Bolger had climbed Gancho Perfecto (9a+) at Margalef. He's now followed this up with an ascent of Víctima Perfecta on the same wall: Finestra. He began his day by attempting the route Mejorando Imagen, a bouldery 9a at the same crag.

Tom wrote on his Instagram: '[I] set my sights on the last combo that I had left undone, making the most of the run of current and great conditions out here I surprised myself clipping the chains! Awesome feelings, sometimes when you have been climbing for a long time it's hard to notice those somewhat small gains that are being made but finally after a few years of feeling pretty stagnant I feel that it's coming together!'

Víctima Perfecta 9a ( /+) ✅ back at the finestra wall, started the day off trying the super bouldery mejorando imagen and then set my sights on the last combo that I had left undone, making the most of the run of current and great conditions out here I surprised myself clipping the chains! Awesome feelings , sometimes when you have been climbing for a long time it's hard to notice those somewhat small gains that are being made but finally after a few years of feeling pretty stagnant I feel that Its coming together!!! So psyched for the next projects 📸 @edonavarroce In the last shot im on the somewhat forgotten route Carlota R1 8c ✅, it's a super short and bouldery number with brutal moves on monos.... was so good to get this done in a few tries and mega psyched to check out R2!!! Vamos @gabiliii que esto solo acaba de empezar 😘 !!!! @tenayaclimbing @lookingforwildofficial @beta_climbing @climbingtechnology #climbing #margalef #amuerte #project #escalada #klettern #escalade

A post shared by Tom Bolger (@tom_bolger) on

Jimmy Webb on form

Jimmy Webb has made the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods' Dicktopia (Font 8C) at Camp Dick, Colorado. In the past year, Jimmy has climbed five 8Cs and two 8C+s with ascents of Poison the Well in Brione and Off the Wagon Sit in Valle Bavona. He has spent the last few months sport climbing but is now gearing up for some hard bouldering projects around Lake Tahoe, so watch this space...

Adam Ondra on a new 9a

Adam Ondra has created a new 9a by missing out two artificial holds at Massone, Italy. The original route was named Atene and Adam's new version is called Atene Natural. He had tried the route several times over the years on every trip to Arco, although never made it through the crux section.

You can watch Adam's new natural route in the video below:


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Adam started climbing at about the same time he learned to walk. He hasn't stopped ever since.

When 8 years old, Adam onsighted routes graded 7b+ (5.12c). At age 13 he climbed his first 9a (5.14d).

At...

Adam's Athlete Page 93 posts 31 videos

Jimmy Webb is one of the world's top boulderers, with multiple Font 8C+ problems on his CV. He has been at the forefront of pushing into new grade boundaries for several years and made first ascents worldwide.

Jimmy's Athlete Page 56 posts 9 videos

Tom Bolger is a British expat who moved to Catalunya to focus on his climbing career. He's redpointed numerous ninth-grade routes up to 9a+ (Gancho Perfecto). He's also a former GB Climbing Team member.

Tom's Athlete Page 21 posts

2008-first female bouldering 8b (pura vida/Switzerland) 3 Free climbs on El Capitan (2015 FFA El Nino, 2016 FFA Zodiac, 2017 FFA Magic Mushroom) FFA “Alpine Trilogy” (Kaisers neue Kleider, Silbergeier, End of...

Barbara's Athlete Page 9 posts



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