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The Ticklist #16 - El Cap in a Day by Emily Harrington, Font 8cs and French Sport Climbing

© Dana Ladzinski/Emily Harrington Collection

In this week's Ticklist, we have a free ascent of El Capitan in a day, two new Font 8Cs and a rare repeat of a French sport climb. On y va!

Golden Gate in a day by Emily Harrington

Emily Harrington has made a free ascent of El Capitan's Golden Gate (5.13) in 21 hours and 13 minutes. Known as one of the harder free routes on the granite monolith, it has only been previously free climbed in a day by Tommy Caldwell, Brad Gobright and Alex Honnold. In 2015, Harrington climbed all 41 pitches free over six days.

Harrington attempted to free the route sub-24 hours last year, but took a fall which left her hospitalised with injuries to her neck. This time around was slightly more successful, thankfully. She was belayed by Alex Honnold who said: 'From being a world champion competition climber to summiting Mt Everest, Emily has always been one of the most versatile climbers out there. By free climbing Golden Gate in a day Em has once again shown that she's one of the most capable climbers out there.'

Emily became the fourth woman to free climb El Cap in a day  © Dana Ladzinski/Emily Harrington Collection
Emily became the fourth woman to free climb El Cap in a day
© Dana Ladzinski/Emily Harrington Collection

New Font 8C for Dai Koyamada

44-year-old bouldering legend Dai Koyamada has climbed a new Font 8C in Hiei, Japan. He called the line Amenohabakiri and it follows and overhanging prow which leads to a highball finish.

According to 8a.nu, Koyamada has now climbed more than 20 Font 8C first ascents.

Seb Bouin repeats France's first 9a

Seb Bouin has made a rare repeat of Fred Rouhling's Hugh, France's first 9a at Les Eaux Claires. Climbing the route was part of Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour where he's aiming to explore the history of climbing in France by repeating iconic routes.

Hugh is a desperate 20m pocketed route first climbed by Rouhling in 1993. It's received little attention over the years and has possibly only received 4 repeats, including one from Stevie Haston!

"Hugh" First French 9a ✔️ Vintage Rock Tour What a special route, a special place, and a special moment. We came back from the vintage rock tour week in the historical crag les eaux claires. I had three big objectives for this step : "Hugh"as first French 9a, "Akira" proposed as first world 9b, and "de l'autre côté du ciel" 9a. These three routes have a special style, the " @fredrouhling style". Big impressive moves on big holds. It's quite cool to try these impressive routes. We got a really bad weather (raining all days, except the last one). I was lucky enough to send Hugh before the end of the trip (video coming on the next VRT episode 😀). Yet I couldn't send other projects. I spent one climbing day on "Akira" and 4 goes on "de l'autre côté du ciel". Situation is a bit weird due to the quarantine here. We had to come back. Yet, professional sportman can continue to practice. So I will check how it really works, but I will maybe go back to finish the job if it's possible 🤙. Pic by @crucisoffla ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Hugh" premier 9a français ✔️ Quelle voie spéciale, quelle falaise spéciale, quel endroit spécial. Nous sommes revenus de notre semaine à la falaise historique des eaux claires pour le Vintage Rock Tour. J'avais trois gros objectifs pour cette étape : "Hugh" comme premier 9a français, "Akira" proposé comme premier 9b mondial, et "de l'autre côté du ciel" 9a. Ces voies ont quelque chose de spécial, c'est le "@fredrouhling style", des mouvements impressionnants sur bonnes prises. Et c'est assez fun d'essayer ces voies pour tout dire. On a eu un temps capricieux pour cette semaine, il a plu tous les jours, sauf le dernier. J'ai été assez chanceux de pouvoir enchaîner "Hugh". Malheureusement, il faudra revenir pour Akira (1 jour de travail) et de l'autre côté du ciel (4 montées de travail). La situation actuelle est ce qu'elle est, et nous avons dû rentrer. Cependant, les sportifs professionnels sont censés avoir le droit de continuer leur pratique. A voir comment cela évolue, mais je reviendrai peut être pour finir le boulot si cela est possible. Photo de @crucisoffla dans "de l'autre côté du ciel" @eb_climbing

A post shared by Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) on

Font 8C for Carlo Traversi

American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first ascent of Equanimity (Font 8C) in Kirkwood Lake, California. Writing up his ascent on Instagram, Carlo said: 'The most difficult series of moves I've done in a while. Such a crazy tech power style. Transitioning through a series of bad laybacks with shit smear feet followed by an off-balance top section way off the deck. So good!'


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Seb is one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world with many hard routes including quite a few in the 9a-9b range under his belt including Mamichula, Chilam Balam and his own Les...

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9 Nov, 2020

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-54877897

Oh dear BBC. Now scrambled to "First woman and fourth person ever to free climb el capitan in a day"

9 Nov, 2020

Have they corrected it and it's still wrong?!

The Guardian's write up is surprisingly accurate and detailed, but with a note saying they corrected an earlier version with incorrect info supplied by an agency...

9 Nov, 2020

Ah, they've amended it and taken out the stuff about her being (now one of the few) the first and added a paragraph about Lynn Hill at the end.

To be fair, if I was a reporter who knew nowt about climbing and somebody told me that she was the "first woman to free climb el cap via this route in a day" I'd probably cock it up and leave out one of the details that then makes it not true....

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