Sean Bailey has made the 2nd ascent of Nathaniel Coleman's 'The Grand Illusion,' a Font 8C+ in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The steep roof is a low start to Chris Sharma's Euro Roof and packs in 25 moves without a rest.
Rock and Ice report that the 24-year-old went on a rampage at the start of September, ticking off Ode to the Modern Man (Font 8B+), White Noise (his first Font 8C), and Box Therapy (his first Font 8C+). Clearly, Bailey is in the form of his life, managing to jump through the grades in such a short space of time.
Writing up his ascent on Instagram, Bailey explains that for him The Grand Illusion is comparable to a f9a+/9b route - an area he has experience in, having ticked three routes graded 9a+.
Grand Illusion - This thing sits around the 9a+/9b zone for me. Amazing vision from a bunch of folks over the years digging this one out further and further. Special shoutout to @drewruana and @nathaniel.coleman for the recent vision. Thanks for the photos @neilson.ben. @outdoorresearch @scarpana
Nathaniel Coleman first climbed the problem in the summer of 2020. The ground was initially dug out underneath the boulder to add a substantial amount of climbing before reaching Sharma's Euro Roof. In total, it's roughly 30ft of climbing through a 70-degree roof.
Below is a video of Coleman and Drew Ruana battling for the first ascent: