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IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021

© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Another round of the IFSC World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland, over the weekend with climbers competing in Lead and Speed. With the Tokyo games just around the corner, it was an opportunity for Olympic climbers to finesse their comp strategies and for us to get a good look at them.

Slovenian sensation Janja Garnbret remains dominant with 4 out of 5 Lead golds this season  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Slovenian sensation Janja Garnbret remains dominant with 4 out of 5 Lead golds this season
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

In the women's Lead, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was dominant from the off, topping both routes in qualification and securing the only top in the semi-finals. Italy's Laura Rogora qualified just behind Garnbret, setting the stage for another exciting final.

Garnbret wasn't the only Slovenian to qualify in the women's event; Lucka Rakovec, Vita Lukan, and Mia Krampl all bolstered the Slovenian domination of the event. 16-year-old Aleksandra Totkova who was competing in her second World Cup eve also qualified for the final.

The men's competition was far more open and it was Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi who topped the Lead qualification rankings, followed by Olympian Alex Megos and the 2019 Lead gold medalist in Villars - Swiss climber Sascha Lehmann.

Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) topped the men's qualification  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) topped the men's qualification
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

The semi-finals were a different story for the men. Both Ghisolfi and Lehmann failed to break into the top 8 and it was Spain's Alberto Gines Lopez who grabbed the top spot.

Although not as severe as the deluge in Innsbruck a week before, the weekend was consistently affected by rain and humidity but thankfully this didn't stop the show from going ahead. Garnbret and 20-year-old Rogora both clipped the chains at the top of the route and Garnbret took the gold medal due to her higher placement in the semi-finals. It was the fifth consecutive win at Villars for the Slovenian superstar and her third gold medal in the space of a week. Garnbret will now step back from competitions to focus on her Olympic preparation.

Both Garnbret and Rogora completed the route in the final  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Both Garnbret and Rogora completed the route in the final
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

The women's competition was decided on countback  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
The women's competition was decided on countback
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

Rogora's silver was only her second medal ever after the gold she won in Briançon last year. The podium was finished by USA's Natalia Grossman for her fifth medal of the season.

Women's Lead Podium  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Women's Lead Podium
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

In the men's event, none of the competitors managed to top the route but it was a good night for Team USA with Sean Bailey - the gold medalist for the Boulder event in Salt Lake City - finishing the highest and Olympian Colin Duffy finishing third. Alex Megos was in second place.

Men's Lead Podium  © Lena Drapella/IFSC
Men's Lead Podium
© Lena Drapella/IFSC

There's an unusual amount of focus on the Speed in the lead up to Tokyo, as the event has the potential to make or break any Olympic hopefuls. The men's and women's finals were dominated by Russia and Indonesia. Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo, who holds the current men's world record, took his second consecutive Speed win with a time of 5.329 seconds. In the women's final, Russian Ekaterina Barashchuk took the first World Cup gold of her career with a time of 7.306.

Out of the non-speed specialists, it was only Janja Garnbret who made the final and clocked a time of 8.01.

The next IFSC World Cup takes place in Chamonix, France, from the 12th-13th July.

Lead Women

RankNameNationSemi-FinalFinal
1 Janja Garnbret SLOTOPTOP
2 Laura Rogora ITA45+TOP
3 Natalia Grossman USA34+42+
4 Momoko Abe JPN35+40+
5 Vita Lukan SLO35+40+
6 Aleksandra Totkova BUL36+33+
7 Lucka Rakovec SLO40+17+
8 Mia Krampl SLO3517+
9 Salomé Romain FRA34+
10 Julia Chanourdie FRA34+
11 Lana Skusek SLO33
12 Oriane Bertone FRA32+
13 Julia Fiser AUT32+
14 Lucija Tarkus SLO32+
15 Eva Maria Hammelmüller AUT31+
16 Andrea Kümin SUI31+
17 Kyra Condie USA30+
18 Fanny Gibert FRA27+
19 Käthe Atkins GER23
20 Cloe Coscoy USA21

Lead Men

RankNameNationSemi-FinalFinal
1 Sean Bailey USA4038
2 Alex Megos GER37+35+
3 Colin Duffy USA3631+
4 Sebastian Halenke GER37+26.5+
5 Alberto Ginés López ESP40+26.5
6 Paul Jenft FRA3626
7 Masahiro Higuchi JPN37+12
8 Zento MURASHITA JPN36+11+
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN36
10 Dmitrii Fakirianov RUS36
11 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA35+
12 Sascha Lehmann SUI34+
13 Satone YOSHIDA JPN34+
14 Shuta Tanaka JPN34+
15 Domen Skofic SLO33+
16 Mathias Posch AUT31+
17 Sohta Amagasa JPN31+
18 Marcello Bombardi ITA31
19 Victor Baudrand CAN29+
20 Hannes Puman SWE28+

Speed Women

RankNameNationFinal
1 Ekaterina Barashchuk RUS7.30
2 Iuliia Kaplina RUS8.39
3 Patrycja Chudziak POL7.73
4 Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi INA10.38
5 Emma Hunt USA7.19
6 Natalia Kalucka POL7.47
7 Anouck Jaubert FRA7.52
8 Rajiah Sallsabillah INAFALL
9 Anna Brozek POL7.61
10 Capucine Viglione FRA7.68
11 Giulia Randi ITA7.87
12 Manon Lebon FRA8.00
13 Janja Garnbret SLO8.01
14 Laura Stöckler AUT8.57
15 Janice Ng li SGP10.47
15 Elena Timofeeva RUS10.47
16 Iqomah Nurul INAFALSE START
17 Victoire Andrier FRAQual: 8.19
18 Tetiana Kolkotina UKRQual: 8.25
19 Callie Close USAQual: 8.31
20 Polina Kulagina RUSQual: 8.33

Speed Men

RankNameNationFinal
1 Veddriq Leonardo INA5.32
2 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS7.35
3 Kiromal Katibin INA5.30
4 Vladislav Deulin RUS5.38
5 Mehdi AliPourShena. IRI5.68
6 Aleksandr Shikov RUS5.72
7 Alfian Muhammad INA6.13
8 Rishat Khaibullin KAZ7.73
9 Aspar Jaelolo INA5.72
10 Sergei Rukin RUS5.78
11 Marcin Dzienski POL5.80
12 Reza Alipourshena. IRI5.81
13 John Brosler USA6.11
14 Noah Bratschi USA6.36
15 Lev Rudatskiy RUS7.91
16 Gian Luca Zodda ITA9.90
17 Arsenii Bogomolov RUSQual: 5.80
18 Pierre Rebreyend FRAQual: 5.81
19 Aripin Zaenal INAQual: 5.82
20 Guillaume Moro FRAQual: 5.84


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8 Jul

Another brilliant lead final. The rise of the Americans looks to be on it's way. Odd how they've never been particularly successful in the recent past other than when the IFSC was help in America.

10 Jul

Just watched the speed finals. Anyone else find the commentary unbelievable and amazing?

10 Jul

The incisive in-depth post competition interviews were good too.

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