UKC

The Ticklist #59 E8 solo by Anna Taylor, Patagonian Link-up and Hard Boulders

© Simon Taylor

An E8 solo, a Patagonian link-up and some hard bouldering...

Psykovsky's Sequins E8 7a repeated Solo by Anna Taylor

Anna Taylor has made a solo third repeat of Franco Cookson's 2013 route Psykovsky's Sequins (E8 7a) at Danby Crag in the North York Moors. The line's UKC guidebook description by Franco reads: "Fierce climbing up the overhanging wall on little finger monos and very little for the feet, with a crux reflexing onto the vertical headwall above. Not one to fall off."

Anna first tried the line 4-5 years ago, but didn't feel ready for the hard pulls on four monos in a row. 

'Fortunately a few years of soloing and some recent bouldering-related strength gains have changed things, and it's now officially off the to-do list," Anna wrote on Instagram.

She chose not to use a bouldering pad, describing it as 'quite a scary solo' as a result.

Dave Birkett made the first repeat in 2013 (UKC news) on lead, using a customised piece of gear similar to a slider in one of the mono holds.

The line is Anna's third of the grade, following her ascents of Obsession Fatale E8 6c in 2018 (UKC News) and Disorderly Conduct E8 6c (UKC News). In 2021, she completed a Classic Rock round by bike (UKC Interview). 

Torre Triple by Pritty Wright and Jeff Wright

US husband and wife team Jeff and Pritty Wright have returned from an 11-day trip to Patagonia where they summited three peaks in just four days in a triple link-up. The pair climbed climbed Festerville on Aguja Standhardt (400m, 90 degrees snow/ice, 6c, 15 pitches) to Spigolo di Bimbi on Punta Heron (350m, 90 degrees snow/ice, 6c, 8 pitches) to Espejo del Viento on Torre Egger (200m, 80 degrees snow/ice, 6a+, 6 pitches).

Pritty shared on instagram:

'The grade, the heights, the hours, don't really paint an understandable portrait of this kind of adventure, just like the lines of the topo didn't really explain where to go. Climbing in Patagonia means shenanigans. The cracks full of ice and loose blocks must be climbed, wet slab traversed, boots and crampons come on and off, packs must be worn or hauled, rappels made, gear left, weather analyzed, snow melted, bivy ledges flattened, and the way must be found. It was a great deal of fun, and highly stressful. We didn't stop moving, planning, re-planning, packing and unpacking for those 11 days.

Pritty is only the third woman ever to summit the notorious Torre Egger. 

In November 2020, the pair made an alpine-style first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) and the third ascent of K6 West (7,140m).

Big Conviction 8C+ FA by Simon Lorenzi

Belgian Simon Lorenzi has added another hard sit start to Big Island 8C at Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau, to create Big Conviction 8C+. The line links Conviction Low into Big Island.

Last year, Simon made the FA of Soudain Seul 8C+, a sit-start to Big Island.

On Instagram, Simon wrote:

'The last addition that i wanted to do on this amazing boulder. Since last year when i did "Soudain Seul", i've been very nostalgic about this place and what i experienced there as a climber. Luckily for me another hard start remained to be done and i really wanted to climb again in this incredible line of "Big Island."'

8B Rampage by Will Bosi

Will Bosi has continued his run of form after making the FA of Below Zero 8B+ at Loch Ruthven last week by ticking the Ben Moon classic Voyager (f8B) 8B at Burbage North in the Peak District and Home (f8B) 8B at Carrock Fell in the Lake District.


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30 Jan

'Climbing in Patagonia means shenanigans.' Brilliant.

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