UKC

New Route on Unclimbed Peak in Jugal Himal by Paul Ramsden and Tim Miller Newsflash

© Tim Miller

Paul Ramsden and Tim Miller have just returned from a trip to the Jugal Himal, north-east of Kathmandu in Nepal, where they made the first ascent of an unnamed and apparently unclimbed peak mapped at 6563m. The pair have named the peak Jugal Spire, and their 1200m granite north-face route The Phantom Line ED+.

Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden in the Jugal Himal.  © Tim Miller
Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden in the Jugal Himal.
© Tim Miller

Paul told his sponsor, Mountain Equipment:

"The north face forms a huge sweep of granite with one potential line of weakness that we climbed over an eight day period with five days spent on the face. The route was hard with thin ice and mixed climbing, with enough blank sections to keep us guessing all the way up. We have called the route The Phantom Line (ED+) due to its ability to appear and disappear when viewed under different light and weather conditions."

The Phantom Line on Jugal Spire.  © Paul Ramsden
The Phantom Line on Jugal Spire.
© Paul Ramsden

Paul told UKC:

"The climb is a product of too much time spent on Google Earth during the lockdowns. The mountain itself is actually one of the closest to Kathmandu and its north face is one of the biggest and steepest rock walls in Nepal, but this appears to have previously gone unnoticed.

Tracing the seam of ice on The Phantom Line ED+.  © Paul Ramsden
Tracing the seam of ice on The Phantom Line ED+.
© Paul Ramsden

"The route itself shouldn't really be there, as it's no place for an ice route. However after many hours of studying the wall we managed to piece together an almost continuous line of snow and ice. One noticeable problem was a blank piece of rock in the centre of the wall, however when we got there we found a hidden squeeze chimney that climbed inside the rock for about three pitches making the whole thing possible. The chimney was a sack hauling nightmare."

Looking up at the Phantom Line.  © Paul Ramsden
Looking up at the Phantom Line.
© Paul Ramsden

Paul has four Piolet d'Or awards to his name, earning recognition alongside Mick Fowler for first ascents of the North Face of Siguniang in China in 2003, the Prow of Shiva in India in 2013, Gave Ding in Nepal in 2016 and the North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East in Tibet in 2016 with Nick Bullock. 

Paul Ramsden on The Phantom Line ED+.  © Tim Miller
Paul Ramsden on The Phantom Line ED+.
© Tim Miller

Tim is an instructor and trainee mountain guide with winter ascents up to grade IX and first ascents in the Greater Ranges up to 7,000m prior to this latest summit. 


This post has been read 4,080 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

That is an absolute killer line. What a face! And an unclimbed peak too. Stunning achievement.

10 May

Absolutely stonking line!

10 May

Wow awesome face and route to have under your belt.

Looks incredible Tim!

11 May

Piolet d'Or candidate?

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest