UKC

New Ceüse 9b for Alex Megos

© Jan Virt/Alex Megos Collection

German climber Alex Megos has completed the well-known project on Face de Rat at Ceüse, naming it 'Ratstaman Vibrations' and has alluded to it being in the '9b range.'

The route was bolted by Chris Sharma and has since been attempted by the likes of Seb Bouin, Charles Albert, and Shawn Raboutou. Megos originally tried the line in 2014 but was distracted by what eventually became Bibliographie (9b+). He returned to the project in 2021, climbing it in three sections on his second day but it wasn't until this summer that he returned.

Alex wrote on his Instagram: 'Right after the World Cup in Chamonix, I headed to Ceüse to properly try the route. After five days I got really close to doing it, but couldn't quite piece it together in the end. The World Cup in Briançon came as a welcome break from hiking up the hill and after a week of competing and training I returned to Ceüse. First day back on the route felt really good and already on the second day of this trip I had the perfect send go!

'Rastaman is one of those mythical routes for me. Bolted by Chris Sharma a while at one of the best crags in the world, tried by a few strong people, but not been done for many years.

'For sure one of the best routes I've ever done or tried in the 9b range.'

Watch Charles Albert and Seb Bouin attempt the route in video below:

In 2020, Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie at Ceüse, speculating that it could be the world's second 9c. Eventually after a couple of repeats and confirmation from Megos, the grade settled at 9b+. After the Olympics, he went on to make several impressive ascents including flashing Klem Loskot's Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a), and repeating Will Bosi's King Capella (9b/+).


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