UKC

Aidan Roberts Repeats Alphane - Font 9ANewsflash

© Aidan Roberts Collection/Sam Pratt

Aidan Roberts has repeated Alphane (Font 9A) at Chironico, in Ticino, Switzerland. The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it wasn't until this summer that he announced the ascent.

Writing on his Instagram, Aidan said: 'This one was a pretty amazing experience to live. As with almost all of climbing, that one attempt where all the factors fall into place, that moment of flow where moves feel effortless, when time feels irrelevant, it makes up but a negligible fraction of our experience. And yet this attempt often holds all of the power over our stories of success.'

Aidan's training is becoming legendary and he's known to go to great lengths to train specifically for certain boulder problems. For Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, also Font 9A, he scanned the holds and 3D printed replicas to train on. On Alphane, Aidan wrote:

'Alphane however, was a pleasure throughout. Every day of effort, on rock or replica, felt to bear fruit with lessons of subtleties in movement, intricacy of holds and optimising mindset. I've got nothing but positive memories surrounding this climb and lots of days sharing methods with friends. It feels as though every session has been a success, almost a shame that there won't be more to come!'

Alphane was the world's 4th 9A after Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul. It is now the second to have been repeated with Soudain Seul having had three ascents in total.

Will Bosi and Aidan have both previously climbed Font 8C+ but Aidan's repeat of Alphane is the hardest a British climber has bouldered. He is now the 7th person to have climbed the grade.


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Aidan has repeated hard problems around the world and added a few of his own - Isles of Wonder Sit Start 8C+, Superpower 8C/+, Railway 8C in Rock Mountain National Park...

Aidan's Athlete Page 24 posts 13 videos


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20 Oct, 2022

Amazing stuff! Congrats Aidan :)

Let's hope that Will can jump on the send train as well.

I thought Soudain Seul was now established at 8C+? I would also be interested to see how he thinks this compares in difficulty to Superpowers and Isle of Wonder.

20 Oct, 2022

Bring it on!

It's received two repeats, one suggesting 8C+ and the other suggesting soft 9A, so it's still 9A. Interestingly it's the only 9A to be repeated...or at least it was until now...

Let's hope that Aidan can get back to Finland to complete Burden of Dreams!

20 Oct, 2022

Amazing stuff, absolutely on the cutting edge of the most physical climbing, and only just getting into his prime

20 Oct, 2022

Seems strange to suggest that something can be soft for the grade when you've only ever climbed one of that grade?

Yeh, looking forward to see if he can get Burden done :)

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