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New 9b by Alex Megos, one of his 'most successful trips so far'

© Meri Mendez (@mtx.mendez)

After three weeks in Margalef, Alex Megos has shared the news of what he described as 'one of my best and most successful trips so far', and it's impressive reading.

Alex on Pink Patatas 9a+ (FA)

All in all, Alex climbed fourteen routes, including first ascents at every grade between 8c+ and 9b (including a 9a+/b). He also managed repeats of a further two 9a+'s, two 9a's, and threw in a flash of Patan el Villano 8c for good measure.

Alex on Red Ram 9a+ (climbed on his third attempt)

The crowning achievement of the trip was a First Ascent of The Full Journey 9b, a route that Alex set his sights on back in April. He first came across the route when he saw British climber Tom Bolger, who bolted the line, working the first of the route's two pitches. 

Alex on The Full Journey 9b (FA)

Sharing his thoughts on the route on instagram, Alex said: 

'I knew piecing the first and second part together will not be easy, despite the very good rest at the anchor of the first pitch. On my first day back in Margalef last week I could get a repeat of the first pitch, but to actually add the second part it took 6 more days of trying. 

The first part is pure power-endurance on mostly two finger pockets with a hard mono move in the middle. The second part is a boulder with a rather violent dead point move to a mono and a few more hard moves after.

If it wasn't for the good rest between the two parts this route would definitely be next level. With the rest it's still hard though. Both parts fit my style very well I'd say, so I'm curious to hear what repeaters think'.

See below for the full ticklist of Alex's trip!

photo
Alex Megos' Margalef Ticklist
© Alex Megos

If you're hungry for more Alex Megos 9b content, the film of Alex's FA of Ratstaman Vibrations comes out at 5pm tonight! See below for our news report on his ascent of the route back in July.


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 91 posts 9 videos


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27 Oct, 2022

The photos don't seem to come up on the news report?

27 Oct, 2022

Think Instagram was having some issues, should be working now!

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