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Mécanique Élémentaire 8B+ by Staša Gejo

© Matt Groom

Staša Gejo has climbed Mécanique Élémentaire (f8B+), an 8B+ boulder in Fontainebleau.

Gejo was first shown the boulder back in 2017 when it was being worked on by Mélissa Le Nevé. Le Nevé later made the first female ascent of the boulder, in doing so becoming the first female to climb an 8B+ boulder in Fontainebleau. Gejo was able to achieve her first 8A boulder, Opium (f8A), on the same trip, but thought that the sixteen-move Mécanique Élémentaire wasn't yet within her reach.

'She was working on this crazy looking traverse starting with the weird overhead heelhook, with big moves on holes in the roof, ending the same way as Opium - with an aggressive swing. That looked too futuristic for me at the time'.

Gejo returned to the boulder last year, and was able to complete each of the moves before rain prevented her from trying to link them all together. Last weekend, after having fallen on one of the final moves multiple times, she was eventually able to link all the moves together.

'After 3 sessions last week, and falling at the swing around 5 or 6 times, I did it with frozen fingers, pumped and exhausted. It was a battle to remember. I was incredibly happy though. I had so many people support me and push me till the end'.

Gejo dedicated the ascent to her grandmother, who passed away on the same day.

In making the ascent, Gejo joins Le Nevé and Oriane Bertone in an exclusive group of women to climb an 8B+/V14 boulder in Fontainebleau, and becomes the first non-Frenchwoman to climb a Fontainebleau 8B+.


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Amazing! Nice one Staša!

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