30 May, 2004 at 10 am Pavel Shabaline, Iljas Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev summited Everest via a significant new route - the centre of the North Wall! The Everest Central North Face direct (The Russian NF Direttissima) is the most significant new route on Everest, and one of the most significant routes on any 8000 meter peak in recent times. It also marks the twenty year anniversary of the last new, clean route on Everest; the Great Couloir 1984.
wow, 3 days at and above 8600m ! That's incredible. Think the unusually calm weather on Everest this year really played a major part in this success. Think there have been summits almost everyday since the 1st summits 17 days ago. This Russian feat has to be the highlight of the last few climbing in the Himalayas. They even had the mountain almost to themselves as most other teamed had already packed up and left.
It says on www.mounteverest.net that the crux was "6 grade rock" at just over 8600m. Is this UIAA grade VI? If so that's damn impressive considering that's around HVS/E1 climbing at high altitude!
yes very recently , see http://www.kairn.com/news.html?theme=1&debut=06%2F02%2F2002&fin=02%2F06%2F2004&mots=Jannu&send=Chercher further links there as well ***** Première russe en face Nord du Jannu Une équipe de 11 alpinistes russes a réussi mercredi la première de l'ascension de la face nord directe du Jannu (7.710 m) dans le massif de l'Himalaya (Népal), "la dernière grande face qui résistait et qu'on pensait réalisable dans dix ans seulement", a annoncé vendredi à l'AFP Luc Jourjon, directeur technique de la Fédération des clubs alpins français.
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