Dave Pickford has climbed a significant route at pentire Head on the North Devon Coast. Wall of Spirits, E8 6b, takes the impressive blank wall left of the top pitch of Leviathan. Javu.co.uk has more information including a full route description.
Before dismissing Mike raine's comments wholeheartedly, the issue of fixed protection is a serious one, particularly on sea cliffs. I have replaced pegs on many climbs including two at Pentire, and although I tried to use stainless pegs there are problems: 1. Extremely limited range and availability of stainless pegs means only certain pegs can be replaced 2. Its sometimes not possible to remove the old peg cleanly leaving a blocked placement. Consequently, although Dave Pickford's route is a superb personal effort, it may remain just that. Most people like their new routes to be enjoyed by others, but routes of this nature seldom receive ascents due to the difficulty of maintaining the quality of the protection. I don't want to see bolts all over Pentire, but I wish some alltrustic company (or BMC?) would look into providing a full range of stainless steel pegs. I tried a few years ago with little success, but I did get a specification from a specialist steel company.
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