UKC

Ark of the Winds blows more doubt on Maestri

© Steve Long
Last November, using Yosemite speed climbing techniques, Rolando Garibotti, Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami climbed, alpine-style, the 37-pitch El Arca de los Vientos (Ark of the Winds) 5.11 A2 on the northern flank of Cerro Torre (3102m). The crux was the notorious summit snow mushrooms. They descended by Cesare Maestri's 1970's first ascent the Compressor Route. El Arca de los Vientos climbs near the North Face of Cerro Torre route claimed by Cesare Maestri, and climbed with Toni Egger in 1959.

This 1959 ascent, was hailed by Lionel Terray as "the greatest climbing feat of all time" but has for the last 47 years been shrouded in doubt. Numerous climbers have claimed the Maestri ascent as a hoax and now there is further evidence. After his teams ascent of Arca de los Vientos Italian-born Argentinean Rolando Garibotti said in this months Rock and Ice magazine (issue 148, March 2006) that, " Being there, and having read Maestri's descriptions of the route, we felt it became very obvious that Maestri was never there. Where he described 50- to 60-degree terrain we found vertical rock. Maestri said he placed 70 bolts in the 400-metre section from the Col de Conquest to the west ridge. Had they been there, we would have seen at least one, we found nothing."

Duane Raleigh of Rock and Ice magazine says, "The 1974 ascent of the remote West face by the Italian Casimiro Ferrar and his team of "Lecco Spiders" now stands as the first true ascent of Cerro Torre.

You can read some more background on these ascents at the Outside and Mount Everest News websites.


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26 Jan, 2006
I tthought the doubts were already very strong, remember reading something by Alan Heptonstall (who spoke Italian & worked in Rome for a while) way back more or less proving Maestri hadn't climbed the route
26 Jan, 2006
The rotting compressor is still there tho, right?
26 Jan, 2006
See also page 8 of Feb 06 issue of Climb magazine
26 Jan, 2006
Hi Mick, I know this controversy goes back decades and few believe in Maestri's ascent. But I still wish you'ld entitled this thread something like, "Further serious doubt cast on..." (I fully accept "NEWS... 'bogus'" is much snappier!) Apart from the late Toni Egger (presumably), the only person who knows for sure whether Maestri topped out is the man himself. And until, he says otherwise, there is a slender threat of innocence. Perhaps I'm being too gentlemanly but I'd prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt. (And if he's bothered/got a hotshot relative/laywer in Turin, or somewhere, you might be in trouble with that 'bogus'.) Mick, I don't want to have a row with you. I'm stunned by the enormity and quality of the work you put into this site. Just some friendly thoughts... All best wishes, Mick
26 Jan, 2006
Hi Mick.....I split the titles, (the news item is "Ark of the Winds blows more doubt on Maestri") although R+I seem to have no qualms about this being conclusive evidence. Point taken though. Thanks, Mick
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