UKC

Sir Edmund Hillary joins in the Everest controversy

© michel4388
In the rush to summit Everest over the last few weeks, the tragic story of David Sharp from Teeside, may have got missed by some. Mr Sharp was climbing solo on a busy summit day - Wednesday 17th. He was descending after reaching the summit when he became ill and took shelter some 300m below the summit. Despite then subsequently being passed by possibly as many as 40 people, Mr Sharp died later that day and his body was found by others descending from the summit.

This has ignited a storm of controversy not least on the UKC Forums. The morality question of whether to push on to the summit has been around in mountaineering for years. Some are in no doubt about what action should have been taken. On the www.stuff.co.nz web site Sir Edmund Hillary has openly criticised those who walked passed the struggling David Sharp. "We would have definitely abandoned the ambition to reach the summit in order to get the other person to safety."

Sir Edmund added that climbing Mt Everest was becoming too commercial and some restrictions were needed. "It is just ridiculous having 15 or 20 or 30 expeditions all attempting the mountain at the same time."

One man who has come in for particular criticism is Mark Inglis, the first double amputee to climb Everest. Speaking to the Close Up programme on New Zealand television, Mr Inglis said, "The trouble is that at 8,500m it is extremely difficult to keep yourself alive, let alone keep anyone else alive. It was like 'What do we do?' We couldn't do anything. He had no oxygen, no proper gloves, things like that."


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22 May, 2006
I don't like to judge without hearing the full story and I would like to think that the guy was beyond hope and the others couldn't do anything and perhaps were struggling just to stay alive at that altitude. But I agree with the bloke who said "at least give the guy a hug." It must be better to die in someone's arms than be passed by. It's a terrible thing. Very tragic.
22 May, 2006
Dear Ian I am with Kenton Cool's comment in yesterdays Observer: "A lot of people should not really be here. I ask myself, are they really mountaineers? Do they love the mountains? They keep to themselves and are not interested in the Sherpas and sitting and drinking beer with them. They are more interested in keeping up their websites.". I believe we (mountaineers/climbers) would have did something. Norrie
22 May, 2006
No, neither can I. I will make one point though Ian. Is it moral to offer a place on a 'commerical' expedition, where you pay for oxygen as an extra? Fine if you are an experienced 8000m bagger a la Simone Moro (who traversed the mountain this week). But a lot of the people who get into difficulty on Everest are inexperienced climbers paying for cheap base camp services from unscrupulous providers who are happy to take their money. They get very little in the way of support (sherpas/02) and (as was the case last season on 20/21 May on the North side - you must remember as you were there).. go for it on a tenuous weather forecast, because they are simply running out of time/food. I don't know/haven't read about David Sharp, but I would be sceptical about the circumstances of what happened without having a lot of different accounts from different people who were there. I know of a previous rescue from 8500m on the North side, when what was reported in the UK media was not exactly a true reflection of what happened, according to other sources. Plus the broader media doesn't appreciate that climbers can be on different parts of the route and have no idea what is going on above or below them. For example, our (Jagged Globe) team were accused of not assisting someone in 2004, when Kenton and team had no idea at the time that someone was in difficulty.
22 May, 2006
You've seriously misquoted me and it's unacceptable. I said "I'd like to think that....." I don't know the facts and I don't claim to. I want to think generously because I know one of the people who summitted at about that time and I believe him to be a nice person who wouldn't leave someone to die.
22 May, 2006
That's OK. It's an emotive issue.
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