UKC

Cheat at the Wall Using Slop Style, KneeBob Mungepants...etc

© bawbag
"Because I work 9,000 hours a week and — fattening with age — am increasingly cowed by real, outdoor rock climbing, I've become an unrepentant gymrat. But a wondrous thing has happened since sport climbing's Dark Ages (the 1980s), when avant-garde course-setting consisted of slapping two one-finger pockets in a row (¡craz-eee!) on some monkey slab and capping it off with a nine-foot sideways leap. Verily, today's gyms own, hone, and rock your dome. To wit, grip shapes and texture have become more innovative, complex, and skin friendly, with volumes, outsized holds, and macro features introducing a rock-like chaos."

So writes Matt Samet, editor of Climbing magazine about the Joy of Climbing Indoors.

Learn about Slop Style, KneeBob Mungepants and how to Stand Tall; and other free and easy ways at the wall.

To understand Matt's angst-ridden language you will have to replace 'gym' for 'wall' but the game remains the same.

Read the full story on how to cheat at the wall at UKClimbing.com's affiliate Climbing.com (this link takes you right to the whole sordid details).


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25 Nov, 2007
Wow. What is that language he's using? Is it derived from Anglo-Saxon? J
25 Nov, 2007
I didn't know posting had a name. I wonder if it'll feel less clumsy now I know it has a name... This bit: "And most sneakily, you can also pop an impromptu heel-toe on larger grips by plunking your heel down and camming your toe directly against the wall." Can someone expand on that ... I don't do it and I don't quite understand what he means. Is it effectively a way of getting an extra bit of lift into a smear?
25 Nov, 2007
I interpreted that as shoving yout toes behind a jug then dropping your heel so that the top of your toes cam against the wall. Given the incompehensible language it's written in, it could mean just about anything though.
25 Nov, 2007
'Sketching', surely? And I was always told it was poor practice. Didn't stop me though ;-)
25 Nov, 2007
Matt is American and speaks in American, similar to a lot of boulderers in the UK.
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