UKC

Number 11: Caldwell Confirms FFA of Magic Mushroom

© Luke Bauer
Tommy Caldwell, continuing his historic Yosemite free-climbing sweep, has confirmed the first free ascent of El Capitan's Magic Mushroom (V A3 5.7, ca. 2,900', Burton-Sutton, 1972).

He was joined on the climb by Justin Sjong, who, among other El Cap ticks, has freed Golden Gate (VI 5.13b, Huber-Huber, 2000), the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Frost-Pratt-Robbins, 1961; FFA: 5.13b Piana-Skinner, 1988) and the Muir Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Chouinard-Herbert, 1965; FFA: 5.13c, Caldwell, 1995). The pair began up the route on May 12; it is believed they climbed it all free ground-up in a push. It is not yet clear whether both climbers freed every pitch.

The free ascent marked the eleventh free climb Caldwell has done on El Cap.

Full report and photos at the Alpinist Website.


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2 Jun, 2008
Well I got that completely wrong. It seems that Magic Mushroom took 5 weeks of work before the free ascent: http://tinyurl.com/6ale7a And is rather hard: http://tinyurl.com/56gwvu This hasn't stopped Caldwell going back and doing it in a day with Beth Roden, reports Tom 'elcap-pics' Evans: http://tinyurl.com/6klyos
2 Jun, 2008
Wonder what athletic 8a chimneying looks like. I don't think I want to think about it. jcm
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