UKC

Birkett - 'My Piano' - E8 Onsight

© Tristan Johnson/Posing Productions.com
Update: Posing Productions Photo Gallery Here

Dave Birkett has again proven himself to be one of the leading lights in British traditional climbing. Last week he was rescuing sheep in Langdale, this week he's onsighting sandy, scary E8 arêtes.

Birkett, known mainly for his desperate Lakeland head-points is actually a superb all round performer, with several other hard trad onsights and various desperate sport redpoints to his name. He is the author of several super-slate routes in the Lake District, such as Caveman F8b+ (possibly F8c - unrepeated) in Cathedral Quarry as well as the more well known death-routes such as the infamous If 6 Was 9 that went for many years without a repeat until Dave Macleod dispatched it last year. Birkett's ascent of My Piano at Nesscliffe was captured on video and will feature on the new film by Posing Productions: Onsight (Trailer Here).

Nesscliffe is one of Britain's unsung climbing gems:

"A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the soaring arête and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the head-point, I just can't understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain's climbing treasures."
Lee Proctor, UKC database comments - 13/05/2005

My Piano slices up the huge, bold, square-cut arête, making Archangel at Stanage look like a boulder problem. It features a hard start and sandy, technical climbing in a very run-out position. According to Al Lee who filmed Birkett extensively for his film-profile 'Set in Stone', Birkett is in amazing shape;

"He's really fit at the moment - in really good shape. Even fitter than when I filmed him on all the Lake District routes. Really impressive."

We wish Dave the best of luck with his new house-build project and hope that he'll still get time to knock off the odd cutting edge route!


This post has been read 29,016 times

Return to Latest News


23 May, 2008
That'ss pretty awesome .
23 May, 2008
Get In!
23 May, 2008
Well done Dave! Top send. Looking forward to meeting you round Nessie, been hearing about your visits. Ed
23 May, 2008
Hoooooo-ly cow. Never mind making Archangel look like a boulder problem. It makes End of the Affair look like a boulder problem. That's some effort. jcm
23 May, 2008
Is this the first repeat of your route, Ed? So whats that that Birkett has bagged now? First ever mountain trad E8 AND first ever outcrop E8? Or has someone done E8 before on non-mountain crags (confirmed ascents of course. Not including rumours about The Zone)?
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email