UKC

How Leo did it in Yosemite

Full details by Leo Houlding of his ascent in May of the Leaning Tower of Yosemite are now available. A taster:

"Royal Robbins called the Tower - first climbed by Warren Harding in 1953 with a heavy use of bolts - “the steepest wall in North America”. Comparable in angle to Kilnsey North Buttress but 1,000ft high … you get the picture!...

The initial insanely steep bolt ladder remains an aid pitch and will never go free (so prove me wrong). The free climbing begins where the bolt ladder ends at a small ledge in a shallow, steep groove. The crux pitch - a 160ft 5.13b (E7 6c) - leads you on to the Ahwahnee ledge, a five star perch...

An unusual hanging ramp pitch then a full 60m stamina fest, both around 5.12c bring you to the big roof... about 20ft of horizontal laybacking then another 20ft of bridging up a 45-degree overhanging groove. Every hold a jug, it’s a wild pitch. Extremely exposed E6 6c(5.13a).... Achievable in a day... set to become a classic of its grade."


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