UKC

Johnny Dawes E6 First AscentVideo

© Bamboo Chicken
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Click to find out more about Welsh Connections
In this clip from the forth coming film Welsh Connections we see British climbing legend Johnny Dawes do battle with pitch 4 of his girdle traverse of Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

Johnny's new route The Bolton Wanderer (E6) was climbed onsight, but Johnny had previously climbed many of the 'up routes' on the crag through which The Bolton Wanderer passes. His ascent was reported in the UKC News back in July:

It's difficult to decipher exactly where on the crag this pitch is due to the confusing nature of the rock at Scimitar Ridge, but it looks as though Johnny starts near the flying arĂȘte of King Wad (E6) and traverses through some steep and serious ground across Surgical Lust (E7) to pass through and clip the peg on Tufty Club Rebellion (E5) finishing by belaying in the safety of the large crack of Troy (E1).

On being confronted by the large pendulum potential and hard climbing when he comes to follow the pitch, Johnny's climbing partner thinks better of it and opts not to follow...

You can pre-order your copy of Welsh Connections Here

VIDEO: Johnny Dawes on the Bolton Wanderer (E6), Scimitar Ridge

Related Video: Jack Geldard onsighting Surgical Lust (E7), Scimitar Ridge


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17 Nov, 2009
That was brilliant! ... And inspiring enough to buy the DVD when it comes out. Having Dawes as such an influence when I started climbing makes it extra special to see him climbing nails stuff again
17 Nov, 2009
Love the attempted head jam to gain a rest. The guy is a legend.
17 Nov, 2009
Absolutely glorious. The spirit of real climbing personified. I love the kind of inherent contradictions there - the cool, Zen-like Johnny getting very snappy indeed! So like my brother and I climbing when we were very young .. or rather, my brother snapping at me. My rope work was never right, somehow! Yet, the thing is my brother was right: I was a bit of wally with the ropework!
17 Nov, 2009
Stopped it after a while since it just seems to be and unpleasantly impatient fat man climbing a rubbish looking route with pegs in. At least its put me off spending money on the DVD.
17 Nov, 2009
Superb soundtrack too. So many climbing videos now have absolutely atrociously inept music, and suddenly we have this, which is fantastically well-judged every inch of the way, yet is never obtrusive, never distracts us from the subject, but actually sharpens our focus on it a bit.
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