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North Wales Bouldering Round-UpVideo

Jack Geldard

25th March, 2010

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A busy Jerry's Roof boulder, Llanberis Pass © Jack Geldard — A busy Jerry's Roof boulder, Llanberis Pass
© Jack Geldard, May 2009

Tom Williams climbing Mr Fantastic, V12, Jerry's Roof Boulder, Llanberis. © Tom Williams — Tom Williams climbing Mr Fantastic, V12, Jerry's Roof Boulder, Llanberis.
© Tom Williams

Sixteen year old Tom Williams has repeated a clutch of hard problems in North Wales including the difficult power-endurance problem Mr Fantastic (V12) on the Jerry's Roof boulder in the Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

Mr Fantastic took Tom two sessions and around twenty tries. Around a month earlier he had climbed Bus Stop (V9) on his second try. The youngster from Warrington is on very good form at the moment and made a very fast ascent of Lou Ferrino (V10) in Parisella's Cave last week, climbing the problem in around an hour.

Tom trains at the Warrington wall, mainly bouldering, but occasionally does routes too.

"For this year I would like to do Pilgrim and In Hell at Parisella's Cave, North Wales and Little Women up at Kentmere in the Lake District," he said.

Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass - The Hall of the Mountain King is located close to the large split boulder in the centre of the photo. © Jack Geldard — Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass - The Hall of the Mountain King is located close to the large split boulder in the centre of the photo.

Also in Wales, Chris Davies and Dave Noden have added a pair of desperate problems to the Llanberis Pass.

Stoned Temple Pilots (V12) and The Track (V12) both climb out of a 'hole' just above the Barrel Boulder below Dinas Mot.

Chris Davies gave us a little more info:

"Through this hole, for those of you who seek it out, is the ultra cool 'Hall of the Mountain King' - an absolute must who feel an urge for the over indulgence of power...

Dave has spent the last few weeks visiting and cleaning the lines here, as initially lose and flaky rock deterred from the quality of the lines, but once sorted, the nature of the climbing became second to none.

Both of the lines are totally different in style, but both exceptional. The situation once in the hall is pretty damn cool, with mostly great conditions. Add a pretty weird/scaryish top out to all of this (around V6 to top out) and you have a pair of awesome new testpieces..."

Dave Noden has also added a hard new problem to the coastal bouldering area of Porth Ysgo on the Lleyn Peninsula. Dave's new creation climbs the blunt arete just left of the classic Higginson Scar, from a sit start.

Commenting on North Wales Bouldering, Dave said:

“It's quite conditions dependent, as it's all slopers and clamping. Style wise it's a bit like Full Power at Gardoms in the Peak I suppose... I reckon it is three stars and a future classic!”

VIDEO: Dave Noden climbing Dolly Rocker V11/12 at Porth Ysgo, North Wales

You can keep up to date on North Wales Bouldering News on the North Wales Bouldering website.
Dave Noden also has a blog here: davenoden.blogspot.com