UKC

First round, first minute goes down, and more!

© Björn Pohl

Today I'm super busy with organising the Tierra Boulder Battle (Live tonight), meaning I don't have much time for posting news, but some pretty remarkable ascents have been made.

Chris Sharma has made the FA of his well known First round, first minute-project in the Laboratory sector at Margalef. I'll try to get in touch with the man for his comments as soon as I can (If you read this Chris, you've got my email;)

Meanwhile at Magic wood/Averstal, Switzerland, Daniel Woods has made the 3rd ascents of two of the area's testpieces, Paul Robinson's Ill Trill (2nd ascent by Micky Page?) and Chris Sharma's Practice of the wild (2nd ascent by Ty Landman). For the former he suggests "hard 8B+" and for the latter "8C". On Practice..., he used Ty's beta, where you take a small gaston before going for the big jug, as opposed to chris', which is an all points off dyno.

More to come...


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20 Apr, 2011
Excellent, good stuff looking forward to the update...
20 Apr, 2011
21 Apr, 2011
Fantastic news and congratulations to Chris (plus Daniel!). I'm surprised there has been so little response to this! Or is everyone waiting for more detail? From the sounds of it no one was filming which as many of Chris' big ascents have been caught on camera feels like an anticlimax. That said there's so much footage of him climbing frfm in progression and the reel rock DVD that I can just watch that! I wander what his other big project that he's close on is?!
21 Apr, 2011
Agreed- puzzling lack of excitement! This is huge. Looks like the second of a new breed of hard climb. Until Ondra's route La Capella in February, it seemed like the way to make things harder was to make them longer (e.g. Jumbo Love). So now we have La Capella 9b, 15m and FRFM 9b, 25 moves. And so, to stay fashionable, I suppose I should quit endurance training and try to get strong....
22 Apr, 2011
You could always try Chilam Balam. That's a 'soft' 9b that just needs endurance :-)
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