UKC

Cornwall New Route for Martin Cathrow - Skyfall E7 6b

© Martin Cathrow
Back on the 5th January 2013 Martin Cathrow successfully completed his project at St Loy, Cornwall.

The striking arete of Skyfall  © Martin Cathrow
The striking arete of Skyfall

Martin Cathrow on Skyfall - E7 6b  © Martin Cathrow
Martin Cathrow on Skyfall - E7 6b
This climb is centred around the superb arete and the old existing aid route of Gloy.

This line has seen much attention over the last 30 years but had yet to see a free ascent. Starting on the seaward face, the climb turns the arete at a flake giving access to the crack of Gloy.

A series of compression moves leads to a small wire placement (which was preplaced for this ascent) before the crux sequence, after which the climb finishes on the seaward arete in a fine position.

Martin named the route Skyfall after a cam placement failure on lead resulted in a vicious ground fall. Despite no mats being used Martin was luckily able to walk away without any major injuries.

Martin regards the route as a fantastic challenge and deserving of future attention and estimates the grade to be E7 6b.


Martin would like to say a big thank you to the Barn Climbing Centre (Milton Abbot) especially Brian for the continued support.


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6 Mar, 2013
Well played, sir. I remember sheltering from the rain in that cave at the bottom once, and thinking this really ought to be done, but I don't think I've ever been back to the crag. Easier thought than done anyway, I dare say. jcm
6 Mar, 2013
Bloody hell that looks nails! Great effort. Good to see Cornwall in the news for once. I love St Loy, such a beautiful place to be on a sunny day.
6 Mar, 2013
Always great to see some Cornwall action. Great effort, the granite down there is immaculate as well.
6 Mar, 2013
Seems a bit of a strange line, actually, rereading it. You seem to climb up the arête, then into the crack of Gloy, then back on to the arête. I'm sure that's the easiest way when you're on it and makes sense, but it seems a bit disappointing not to climb either the arête all the way or the crack all the way. Bit like The Groove at Cratcliffe, I guess; just doesn't climb like that. jcm
6 Mar, 2013
Good effort, looks ace. Bags full of potential at this cliff.
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