UKC

Reclimbing the classics #5 - Grand IllusionVideo

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Toni Yaniro talks about his 1979 ground breaking first ascent of Grand Illusion, 8a, at Lake Tahoe, CA.

13 year old Mirko Caballero gets to learn about what the ethics were like back in the day and practice his crack climbing skills.

The Mammut reclimbing the classics series is sponsored by: Mammut


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25 Jul, 2014
It's interesting to hear Tony Yaniro's view on the ethics of crack climbing on trad. It would be interesting to compare and contrast Mirko's style of ascent with Tony's. However, it is not clear what style of ascent was adopted by Mirko Caballero. In the video we can see that he doesn't place any gear as it is all in place. So did Mirko climb it in the style of Tony Yaniro, lowering off after each fall and pulling his rope or did he practice it whilst hanging on the gear or did he simply pre-place all the gear?
25 Jul, 2014
Well for a start, Yaniro used hang dog methods to suss out the moves for his eventual pinkpoint FA. Mirko pinkpointed it too.
25 Jul, 2014
Tony confesses to trying a move before lowering off, but not to hanging on the gear and then carrying on and placing the next piece and repeating this to the top. Mirko may well have lowered off immediately after each attempt and pulled his rope which would have been better style. For me, the video would have made more sense if we knew whether Mirko's ascent was better or worse than Tony's. However it is clear he didn't lead it placing the gear as he went and using current ethics some climbers may not even count it as a true lead.
25 Jul, 2014
Yeah. Theres some discussion about this over on supertopo. This is a total guess, but Mirko (who Ive met) is a sport climber and boulderer primarily. Therefore I think it would be most likely he would work it in standard US sport climbing style - go for the onsight, and failing that, hang dog up, then keep repeating it for the red(in this case pink) point EDIT - I guess the line has only been done twice in true trad lead style, with placing gear on lead. Its very overhanging and short, making it pretty rough for placing gear.
26 Jul, 2014
Great video as usual....can't wait for the rest.
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