UKC

IFSC World Youth Championships 2015: Report

© IFSC

Last week saw a record number of young climbers from around the world take part in the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy. For the first time ever, bouldering was included as a third discipline alongside Lead and Speed. 29 British juniors were competing, with Tara Hayes becoming the highest placed Brit with a 10th position in the boulder event. Alex Waterhouse competed across all three disciplines to achieve a very commendable 6th place in the overall rankings.

Team GB in Arco  © Nick Pope
Team GB in Arco
© Nick Pope

William Bosi was the highest placed of the Lead team with a 13th place, and older brother Alex took 24th in the Speed event. 

In a highly competitive field, some of the world's best sport climbers and a few young climbers already making a name for themselves in the senior circuit took away Gold medals. Renowned for her hard sport ascents up to 9a, 14 year-old Ashima Shiraishi of the USA took double Gold in both the Lead and Boulder Youth B female events.

photo
Ashima Shiraishi - Double World Youth Champion
© Nick Pope

Having recently transitioned to a couple of senior circuit lead events and winning two Silver medals, Slovenia's 16 year-old Janja Garnbret was one to watch - also doing the double and winning both the Lead and Boulder competition in the female Youth A category.

Korea's Chon Jongwon - fresh from his win of the senior IFSC Boulder World Cup - took Gold in the Male Juniors event, after an exciting battle with Nathaniel Coleman of the USA, another young climber who made the podium on the senior IFSC Boulder circuit this season.

photo
William Bosi - highest placed GB lead competitor
© Nick Pope

GB Lead Team Results:

Male Junior - Alex Waterhouse 20th, Connor Bryne 28th

Female Junior - Molly Thompson Smith 19th

Male Youth A - William Bosi 13th, Jim Pope 15th, Angus Davidson 37th, Peter Dawson 44th

Female Youth A - Rebecca Kinghorn 24th, Hannah Slaney 31st

Male Youth B - Kieran Forrest 41st, Alex Norton 47th, Sam Oakes 50th

Female Youth B - Kitty Morrison 29th, Issy Adams 38th, Pippa Watkin 52nd

GB Speed Team Results:

Male Junior - Alexander Bosi 24th, Alex Waterhouse 30th

photo
Aberdeen's Rebecca Kinghorn climbing for Team GB
© Nick Pope

GB Bouldering Team Results:

Male Junior - Hamish Pokotar 20th, Billy Ridal 27th, Alex Waterhouse 33rd

Female Junior - Tara Hayes 10th, Molly Thompson Smith 34th

Male Youth A - Aidan Roberts 13th, Luke Murphy 50th, Ed Mabon 69th

Female Youth A - Hannah Slaney 29th, Silvia Barrett 35th, Alexia Basch 41st

Male Youth B - Nathan Whaley 25th, Max Milne 26th, Jack Ramsden 47th

Female Youth B - Eugenie Lee 20th

Full Results here.


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7 Sep, 2015
I was out in Arco watching and have to say the standard of climbing by those 'kids' was awesome. And the atmosphere in the stadium was really great; watching the big team shirt bartering sessions was also pretty cool. On the exchange rate a 'Team Texas' shirt = a 'Team GB shirt' but an 'IFSC Judge' shirt simply won't get you one of the green Austrian vests...... In relation to the article though: 'For the first time ever, bouldering was included as a third discipline alongside Lead and Speed.' Surely it was 'Speed' that was the new addition - youth comps have included bouldering for ever!
7 Sep, 2015
We've been watching qualifiers and semi finals live (finals back at home) and it was a pleasure to watch! Some kids are super strong. They have been playing and hanging around in the town all together, no matter where they are from.
7 Sep, 2015
Speed has been a World Youth Championship discipline for many years now, but this was the first year that the bouldering has been included. Youth international bouldering events only started relatively recently.
8 Sep, 2015
What makes this event really interesting is the fact that some of these competitors are crushing in the seniors. Chon Jongwon, Nathanial Coleman, Margo Hayes, Janja Garnbret have all made podium finishes or finals (and of course Jongwon won!)
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