UKC

LaSpo Legends Only 2015, Janja Garnbret's big breakthrough

© Lars Lindwall

La Sportiva Legends Only 2015, Janja Garnbret with the trophy  © Lars Lindwall
La Sportiva Legends Only 2015, Janja Garnbret with the trophy
© Lars Lindwall
La Sportiva Legends Only 2015 at Klättercentret in Stockholm was Slovenian Janja Garnbret's definite breakthrough on the senior level. The line-up was the strongest ever in an invitational bouldering competition and Janja had been given a wildcard.

The reigning World and European Champion, Jule Wurm was there.

The double World and European Champion, Anna Stöhr was there.

The #2 ranked in the World, Shauna Coxsey was there.

The winner of the Sisu Masters, Mélissa Le Nevé was there.

And then there was 16 year old Janja.

Shauna Coxsey at the La Sportiva Legends Only 2015  © Lars Lindwall
Shauna Coxsey at the La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
© Lars Lindwall

Sure, she had won every single competition, including World Championships, in her age category for the last two years, and sure, she has taken two silvers and one bronze in the three senior World Cups she has entered. But that was Lead. 

On paper, realistically, this wouldn't be her competition. However...

Already during the work session two days prior to the competition, it became apparent who was the one to beat. Or didn't the other, more experienced climbers, give their all? Would Janja, who tried the problems non-stop for three hours straight be too tired on competition day?

These problems were hard. My guestimate would be somewhere between 7C/+ and 8A/+. Considerably harder than in any other competiton.

Then, two days later, came the day, or rather night, of the competition. The questionmarks quickly turned into exclamationmarks as Janja did one problem after the other while the others struggled to do any. 

This time, she was simply on another level. Next generation!

The results tell the story:

Janja: 5 tops in 7 attempts (would probably have been 6, but I think she lost her concentration slightly when she decided to wave to the audience mid crux on the hardest problem)

The others: 3 tops (grand total!)

1. Janja Garnbret, SLO

2. Shauna Coxsey, GBR

3, Melissa Le Nevé, FRA

4. Jule Wurm, GER

5. Anna Stöhr, AUT

Janja Garnbret in the La Sportiva Legends Only 2015  © Lars Lindwall
Janja Garnbret in the La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
© Lars Lindwall

The La Sportiva Legends Only 2015 will be remembered for two things:

- Janja Garnbret's definite breakthrough on a World level

- The fantastic atmosphere generated and pure joy radiated from all the competitors before, during and after the competition.

La Sportiva Legends Only is sponsored by: Aloma Naprapati, Clifbar, Climbskin Spain, Dai Koyamada holds, Entre-Prises, Euroholds, Hito holds, Klättercentret, La Sportiva, Loop holds, Problemsolver, Psychoartholds and Rokodromo


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30 Nov, 2015
Bet this lot don't have the problem of the sole ungluing on new(ish) sportiva rock shoes
30 Nov, 2015
Great to see Janja win a senior event at last. So close in her first WC when she topped out on the final route. One of the highlights of the season I thought. Couldn't help feeling the rest of the competitors looked a little bit below par at the moment though. Anna Storr's late arrival meant she missed the rest day, and she was injured earlier in the year. Shauna, also injured earlier in the year. Jula's now retired and didn't look as fit as usual. Next year's boulder WC could be really interesting with hopefully the return of the Puch and Megan Mascaranas too. Too bad Janja won't be doing the boulder comps though it'll still be great to see her doing the lead events. Thought the routes at this comp were really well set. Great moves. And commentary by Liam Londsdale was like a breath of fresh air after the IFSC pro commentators who just don't know enough about climbing to be interesting.
30 Nov, 2015
I like that. Well said.
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