IFSC Lead World Cup Villars: Report

Ellie Fuller UKC

20th July, 2016

This has been read 5,782 times

Only two days after Chamonix, the second round of the IFSC World Cup took place in the Swiss alpine village of Villars (15th-16th July). Sean McColl of Canada took first place with an impressive ascent, while Janja Garnbret continued her strong performance, achieving a second gold medal in this World Cup series.

Sean McColl approaching the final headwall © Eddie Fowke/IFSC — Sean McColl approaching the final headwall
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The women's finals were even closer than in Chamonix, with four athletes achieving the same score. Jain Kim of Korea and Anak Verhoeven of Belgium had almost identical performances in the final and semi-final, however a countback to semis gave Anak a narrow victory and the silver once again. Jessica Pilz and Magdalena Röck, both of Austria, narrowly missed out on the podium.

Jain Kim making the clip in the finals © Eddie Fowke/IFSC — Jain Kim making the clip in the finals
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Domen Skofic of Slovenia, the winner of the previous round, missed the men's finals. Thomas Joannes of France and Keiichiro Korenaga of Japan received a first World Cup medal each, getting slightly higher on the slopers than Sean Bailey who came fourth in this, his first finals. The two scored the same in the finals, but Keiichiro Korenaga took silver in a countback to the semi-finals. It was Sean McColl who got furthest on the route, taking gold in an impressive performance.

Janja Garnbret looking calm and collected © Eddie Fowke/IFSC — Janja Garnbret looking calm and collected
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Next up, the climbers head to Briançon, France for the third World Cup of 2016.

Men's Lead

Rank	Name	Nation	Qual'	Semi's	Final
1	Sean McColl	CAN	23 29.	34+	28+
2	Keiichiro KORENAGA	JPN	40 3.	39	25+
3	Thomas JOANNES	FRA	19+ 45.	29+	25+
4	Sean Bailey	USA	31 5.	28+	24+
5	Urban Primozic	SLO	23+ 16.	28	22
6	Jakob Schubert	AUT	28+ 6.	29+	19
7	Masahiro HIGUCHI	JPN	23+ 16.	29	19
8	Kokoro FUJII	JPN	27+ 8.	28	17
9	Stefano Ghisolfi	ITA	35+ 4.	27+
10	Naoki SHIMATANI	JPN	23+ 16.	27+
11	Charli BLEIN	FRA	27+ 8.	27+
12	Nathan MICHEL	FRA	24 13.	27+
13	Domen Skofic	SLO	40+ 1.	25+
13	Gautier Supper	FRA	40+ 1.	25+
15	Hanwool Kim	KOR	23 29.	25+
16	Jihwan Park	KOR	27+ 8.	25+
17	Maël Bonzom	FRA	24 13.	25+
18	Sascha Lehmann	SUI	23+ 16.	25+
19	Stefano Carnati	ITA	27+ 8.	25+
20	Loïc Timmermans	BEL	23+ 16.	25+

Full results here.

Women's Lead

Rank	Name	Nation	Qual'	Semi's	Final
1	Janja Garnbret	SLO	Top 1.	43+	48+
2	Anak VERHOEVEN	BEL	Top 1.	42+	41+
3	Jain Kim	KOR	41+ 3.	42+	41+
4	Jessica Pilz	AUT	29+ 9.	42+	41+
5	Magdalena Röck	AUT	36+ 6.	40+	41+
6	Christine Schranz	AUT	29+ 9.	38	26+
7	Yuka Kobayashi	JPN	24 37.	37+	26+
8	Salomé Romain	FRA	29+ 9.	42+	15
9	Hélène Janicot	FRA	29+ 9.	36+
10	Hannah Schubert	AUT	25 18.	35+
11	Risa OTA	JPN	30 8.	35
12	Julia Chanourdie	FRA	38 5.	33+
13	Mathilde Becerra	FRA	29+ 9.	27
14	Anne-Sophie Koller	SUI	24+ 22.	27
15	Mina Markovic	SLO	41+ 3.	26+
16	Nikki van Bergen	NED	26+ 17.	26
17	Rebeka Kamin	SLO	24+ 22.	26
18	Mei KOTAKE	JPN	29+ 9.	25+
19	Asja Gollo	ITA	24+ 22.	25
20	Dinara Fakhritdinova	RUS	29+ 9.	23+

Full results here.

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Comments

pbla4024

20 Jul, 2016

It should be "Jain Kim of Korea and Anak Verhoeven of Belgium and Jessica Pilz from Austria had identical performances in the final and semi-final..."

stp

22 Jul, 2016

Men's final was really interesting with Ghisolfi, Supper and Skofic out and some interesting additions. Thought the new video style was pretty good where interviews were conducted in the small picture while allowing to carry on watching the climbers still climbing. No sign of Team GB anywhere which seems a shame. The senior team has 10 pretty good climbers. Don't understand why none of them entered this comparatively local event?

Natalie Berry - UKC

22 Jul, 2016

To put it simply, it all comes down to funding, I'm afraid! Also, unlike competitors from many other countries on the circuit, none of the senior lead team members are full-time climbers to the same extent as the top-performers from abroad. Competition experience at this level is necessary in order to improve results, but if you can't get to competitions in the first place then it's an uphill struggle.

stp

23 Jul, 2016

I realise funding is an, if not the, issue. But it raises the question if we can't afford to send the team to comps what's the point of having a team in the first place? There's money and considerable time and effort put into the team even if it never competes. All that just seems like a waste, money and time down the drain. Or is the team there as some kind of status symbol for the BMC? Maybe they'd just feel too shoddy if they didn't get a team together at all. And if the team members know they're unlikely to even take part in the comps then what motivation is there to train hard in the specific way needed for competition routes on plastic? I know someone who was coached and trained for the speed climbing comps one year. He trained really hard and looked really good on the local wall. But he was never entered into any competitions. I don't think he's part of it any more and I'm not surprised. All that training with no pay off at the end. How could anyone stay motivated for that? Finally I can't see how the non participation can do anything to attract sponsors. It's not a lot of help for Berghaus, who supply team jackets, if the team are never seen at any events.

tom_in_edinburgh

23 Jul, 2016

Maybe the BMC should do the same as MCofS with Climb Scotland and have a separate organisation to handle indoor/competition climbing and affiliate to IFSC. A separate budget with an allocated share of the government funding, the income from youth comps, a share of membership subscriptions based on people who signed up to take part in comps or specified that they wanted to support the comp activity and any commercial sponsorship would get independence from hard line trad climbers and hill walkers who feel generally negative to the whole activity. If the BMC want to be the UK representative organisation for comp climbing and the UK affiliate to IFSC they should be sending a small team to a reasonable number of IFSC lead events as well as the bouldering.

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