The seventh and final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Munich, Germany this weekend. Miho Nonaka and Tomoa Narasaki - both of Japan - took gold. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey finished in 2nd place following a stunning season of four Golds and two Silvers, earning her the overall World Cup title for 2016.
A 2nd place finish in the previous round in Vail already secured Shauna the overall IFSC Boulder World Cup title with one round to spare. She becomes only the third Brit ever to win a senior world title after Simon Nadin, who won the first ever World Cup Lead Climbing series held in 1989 and Fran Brown, two-time World Paraclimbing Champion. The GB team also finished in 3rd place overall in the National Team Ranking, following strong performances all year round.
Britain's Leah Crane achieved the best result of her season so far, finishing in 8th place, just outside the finals cut-off.
A qualification round which saw multiple 5-problem flashes in both the men's and the women's event brought the competition down to attempts rather than tops - resulting in some big names failing to make semis: Monika Retschy, Petra Klingler, Jan Hojer, Rustam Gelmanov, Jernej Kruder, Tsukuru Hori, Tyler Landman and Rolands Rugens.
In the finals, the first women’s problem (W1) was voided as each climber peeled off the volumes just before the top. W2 required both strength and precision, and four women solved the horizontal mantle to flash the problem. Five climbers powered through the triangular volumes of W3 to top, but Mélissa Le Nevé required one more attempt to do so than her competitors. Heading into W4, Shauna, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi were tied with two flashes apiece and three bonus holds. Neither Shauna nor Noguchi could solve the tricky slab start, and Shauna claimed 2nd only on countback to semis. Despite having the Gold in the bag with a countback to semis, Nonaka still found the bonus hold beyond the technical traverse and kept it together to top and win outright.
The first problem for the Men (M1) was powerful, but four athletes muscled up the volumes on the flash attempt. Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki separated themselves from the pack with tops on the technical M2. Narasaki further distinguished himself by maintaining his balance on the M3 slab, the only athlete to do so all the way to the top. M4 boasted a crowd-pleasing combination of crimps and dynos. David Firnenburg completed the problem in two goes for his home crowd, but the German was surpassed by Alexey Rubtsov who got the flash he needed for Bronze. Although Chon also snagged the final hold, he did not do so in few enough attempts to surpass Narasaki, who later also reached his fourth top of the day and took the overall World Cup title.
Watch the finals replay:
Full results below:
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2016
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Miho NONAKA | JPN | 5t5 5b5 | 4t4 4b4 | 3t7 4b8 |
2 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 5t5 5b5 | 4t5 4b4 | 2t2 3b3 |
3 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 5t6 5b6 | 4t6 4b6 | 2t2 3b3 |
4 | Melissa Le Neve | FRA | 5t5 5b5 | 4t5 4b4 | 2t3 3b4 |
5 | Stasa Gejo | SRB | 4t4 5b9 | 4t6 4b4 | 1t2 3b3 |
6 | Julija Kruder | SLO | 4t4 5b11 | 3t5 4b7 | 0t 3b10 |
7 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 4t4 4b4 | 2t2 4b4 | |
8 | Leah Crane | GBR | 5t6 5b5 | 2t3 4b6 | |
9 | Mélanie Sandoz | FRA | 4t4 4b4 | 2t3 4b7 | |
10 | Ayari Sakamoto | JPN | 5t6 5b5 | 2t4 4b8 | |
11 | Franziska Sterrer | AUT | 4t5 4b4 | 2t4 3b8 | |
12 | Katharina Saurwein | AUT | 4t6 5b7 | 2t6 3b5 | |
13 | Clementine KAISER | FRA | 5t5 5b5 | 1t1 3b4 | |
14 | Natalie Bärtschi | SUI | 5t7 5b5 | 1t2 2b2 | |
15 | Chloé CAULIER | BEL | 4t5 5b7 | 1t3 4b9 | |
16 | Evgeniya Lapshina | RUS | 5t5 5b5 | 1t3 3b4 | |
17 | Lilli Kiesgen | GER | 4t5 4b5 | 0t 4b10 | |
18 | Tjasa Slemensek | SLO | 5t6 5b5 | 0t 3b5 | |
18 | Mei KOTAKE | JPN | 5t7 5b5 | 0t 3b5 | |
20 | Giulia Medici | ITA | 5t6 5b5 | 0t 3b12 | |
21 | Tara Hayes | GBR | 4t6 4b4 |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Qual' | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tomoa NARASAKI | JPN | 5t8 5b6 | 4t5 4b5 | 4t6 4b5 |
2 | Jongwon CHON | KOR | 5t6 5b5 | 4t6 4b6 | 3t5 3b3 |
3 | Alexey Rubtsov | RUS | 5t5 5b5 | 4t5 4b5 | 2t2 3b8 |
4 | David Firnenburg | GER | 5t10 5b6 | 4t6 4b5 | 2t3 3b3 |
5 | Mickael MAWEM | FRA | 5t8 5b7 | 4t4 4b4 | 1t2 4b8 |
6 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 5t7 5b7 | 4t6 4b6 | 1t3 4b9 |
7 | Jeremy Bonder | FRA | 5t8 5b7 | 4t8 4b4 | |
8 | Kokoro FUJII | JPN | 4t7 5b7 | 4t11 4b11 | |
9 | Moritz Hans | GER | 5t7 5b5 | 3t4 4b5 | |
10 | Alban LEVIER | FRA | 5t5 5b5 | 3t5 4b5 | |
11 | Baptiste Ometz | SUI | 5t7 5b6 | 3t5 4b6 | |
12 | Sergii Topishko | UKR | 5t8 5b6 | 3t7 4b6 | |
13 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | RUS | 5t6 5b6 | 3t7 4b8 | |
14 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 5t7 5b6 | 3t7 4b10 | |
15 | Michael Piccolruaz | ITA | 4t4 5b5 | 2t3 4b5 | |
16 | Keita WATABE | JPN | 4t7 5b6 | 2t4 4b5 | |
17 | Martin Stranik | CZE | 4t7 5b6 | 2t4 4b9 | |
18 | Taisei Ishimatsu | JPN | 5t6 5b5 | 2t5 4b11 | |
19 | Gholamali Baratzadeh | IRI | 5t12 5b9 | 2t11 4b14 | |
20 | Jonatan Flor Vazquez | ESP | 4t7 5b7 | 1t1 4b8 | |
31 | Tyler Landman | GBR | 3t4 4b4 | ||
57 | David Barrans | GBR | 2t3 4b5 | ||
67 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | 3t6 4b5 |
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