UKC

Big Wall Pioneer Royal Robbins dies aged 82

© UKC News

Californian big-walling pioneer Royal Robbins has passed away aged 82, according to reports in the US climbing media. Active during Yosemite's 'Golden Age', Royal was a proponent of 'clean climbing'; using the natural features of rock for protection, instead of placing bolts or pitons.

photo
Royal Robbins
© Tom Frost (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Robbins' notable ascents in Yosemite include the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome in 1957 and Salathé Wall in 1961. He also made first ascents on on Mount Hooker, in the Wind River Range, Wyoming and established the renowned American Direct on the Aiguille du Dru in the French Alps. Aside from climbing, Robbins became a proficient kayaker, with many first descents to his name and launched the well-known clothing brand Royal Robbins.

He passed away at home on Tuesday 14th March in California after suffering from a long-term illness. 


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15 Mar, 2017
See https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660176 - & especially the links from there to threads on Supertopo
15 Mar, 2017
One of the great pioneers. I'm not sure it's completely true to say that he was a proponent of 'clean climbing' - the Salathé Wall, for instance, was originally climbed with aid.
15 Mar, 2017
At a time when that was the overwhelmingly dominant ethic, the fact that dominance has largely ended was in no small part down to Robbins' advocacy.
15 Mar, 2017
Definitely so, it just seems slightly unfortunately phrased for a man with such a great reputation as an aid climber.
15 Mar, 2017
RIP Royal Robbins. We watched a documentary (on netflix I think) on Yosemite climbing 'valley uprising' Well worth a watch for anyone interested in that era in particular. Eye popping stuff throughout!
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