The second round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Chongqing, China last weekend. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey took 2nd place behind 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret, who dominated each stage to earn her first World Cup win. The Japanese team were once again a force to contend with in the men's event, but it was Korea's Jongwon Chon who took Gold ahead of Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) and Alexei Rubtsov (RUS).
Sweltering conditions across each round coupled with powerful, dynamic setting meant a tough competition in general for the competitors.
Having flashed all qualification boulders and topped everything in the semi-finals, Janja looked set to give Shauna a good battle in the final round. With a top of W1, Janja set the standard for the rest of the round and gave herself an early lead. Closely following her on the remaining problems were Shauna and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), who both topped the three remaining problems. Shauna's smooth flash of W4 put the pressure on Janja to top, which she managed after a few attempts. Canada's Alannah Yip was competing in her first ever World Cup final and placed 5th, becoming the first Canadian female to make a final. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals in 2nd place in her group and placed 15th overall in the semis.
In the Men's event, the entire Japanese men's team qualified for the semi-finals and made up half of the finals line up. The final was an exciting play off between Alexei Rubtsov, Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki. Jongwon completed all 4 problems and was the only competitor to top W3, a delicate slab which required 'crab-like' movement and perfect balance. The burly M4 - with knee bars and compression moves - saw tops from Jongwon and Japanese team member Keita Watabe only.
The following round will take place in Nanjing, China next weekend.
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 4t5 4b5 | 4t11 4b7 |
2 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 2t3 3b12 | 3t4 4b5 |
3 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 2t3 3b18 | 3t13 4b13 |
4 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 2t7 3b8 | 1t3 3b6 |
5 | Alannah Yip | CAN | 2t8 3b9 | 1t3 3b8 |
6 | Stasa Gejo | SRB | 2t5 3b6 | 1t4 3b7 |
7 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 2t11 4b13 | |
8 | Chloe Caulier | BEL | 2t13 4b15 | |
9 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 2t14 4b16 | |
10 | Monika Retschy | GER | 1t1 1b1 | |
11 | Katja Kadic | SLO | 1t2 2b4 | |
12 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 1t3 2b4 | |
13 | Sol Sa | KOR | 1t4 2b4 | |
14 | Ievgeniia Kazbekova | UKR | 1t5 2b6 | |
15 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 1t7 4b18 | |
16 | Hung Ying Lee | TPE | 1t11 2b13 | |
17 | Katharina Posch | AUT | 0t 2b5 | |
18 | Manon Hily | FRA | 0t 2b6 | |
18 | Jain Kim | KOR | 0t 2b6 | |
20 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 0t 2b9 | |
33 | Leah Crane | GBR | Qual' 1t4 4b11 |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 2t5 3b6 | 4t6 4b5 |
2 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 2t6 3b5 | 2t2 3b3 |
3 | Aleksei Rubtsov | RUS | 1t1 3b7 | 2t2 3b3 |
4 | Keita Watabe | JPN | 2t7 3b6 | 1t1 3b3 |
5 | Kai Harada | JPN | 2t6 3b6 | 1t1 3b4 |
6 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 2t9 2b8 | 1t4 3b8 |
7 | Tsukuru Hori | JPN | 1t2 3b6 | |
8 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 1t2 2b6 | |
9 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 1t3 3b5 | |
10 | David Firnenburg | GER | 1t3 2b2 | |
11 | Rei Sugimoto | JPN | 1t5 3b9 | |
12 | Jan Hojer | GER | 1t5 3b10 | |
13 | Nicolas Pelorson | FRA | 1t6 3b5 | |
14 | Rolands Rugens | LAT | 0t 3b8 | |
15 | Meichi Narasaki | JPN | 0t 3b12 | |
16 | Yuji Fujiwaki | JPN | 0t 2b3 | |
17 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | JPN | 0t 2b5 | |
18 | Kaito Watanabe | JPN | 0t 2b10 | |
19 | Michael Piccolruaz | ITA | 0t 1b2 | |
20 | Vadim Timonov | RUS | 0t 1b5 | |
29 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | Qual' 3t8 4b10 | |
71 | Orrin Coley | GBR | Qual' 0t 3b16 |
Watch the full finals replay below:
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