Orrin Coley has had his 'best day ever' in Magic Wood, completing three 8A+ problems, before adding a direct and highball finish to Astronautenfiber, which he has graded 8A. Orrin had been trying Dark Sakai (f8B), although was struggling with a hole in his finger which eventually stopped play.
He went on to make back to back ascents of Right Hand of Darkness (Low Start) (f8A+) (8A+) and Left Hand of Darkness (low start) (f8B), followed by The Never Ending Story Part 1 (8A+) – on the first attempt of the day, much to his surprise.
He told UKC: 'After arriving and sorting the pads, I gave a section a go that I'd had problems with using some new foot beta and cruised it. I moved through the moves smoothly, got to my crux section, climbed through and was suddenly at the finishing jug! I've climbed harder stuff before, but I'm not often as happy as I was after finishing that climb.'
A friend then convinced Orrin to try the direct finish to Astronautenfiber, which they had cleaned the day before. Once the pads were meticulously arranged, he had his first attempt and despite feeling terrible, threw for the hold which guards the highball finish: 'This time I caught it. It was new territory for me up there and I wasn't willing to fall, as it'd almost certainly ended in injury. I stood there for about 3 minutes, chalking and touching holds and trying to decide what to do. Eventually I committed, reached the top and mantled over.'
Orrin believes the climb has been done to the obvious rest before the highball top out (Space Monkey 8A), but the obvious direct finish had never been completed.
Before Orrin's 'best day ever', he had spent his time ticking off classics and had managed several hard problems including Sofa Surfer (8A+), Muttertag (f8A) (8A) and Intermezzo Left (f8A) (8A).
Orrin is now training for the World Cup at Ratho in three weeks' time, as well as setting his sights on the sit start project to Steve McClure's Fat Lip (f8B) t Raven Tor.
Orrin is sponsored by: Evolv, Lattice Training, Metolius and prAna
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