UKC

Biographie, second 9a+ for Margo Hayes!

© Arco Rock Legends

Margo Hayes on Biographie, 9a+, Céüse, France  © Matty Hong
Margo Hayes on Biographie, 9a+, Céüse, France
© Matty Hong
Margo Hayes has repeated Chris Sharma's iconic Biographie (9a+), 9a+, at Céüse, France. This was the first female ascent and Margo's second of the grade after La Rambla, which she repeated in February.

The first female ascent of Biographie has been a coveted prize and only a few weeks ago Janja Garnbret came close, falling at the very last hard move on her 6th attempt, but in the end Margo beat her to it.

With three female 9a+ ascents this year it seems clear the gender gap has become smaller. Remember only two men, Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma, have climbed 9b+ and to me it doesn't feel inconceivable we'll see the first female ascent of a 9b relatively soon.


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Margo Hayes has been pushing her personal limits and redefining convention since she was competing in Female Youth D divisions. A creative, intelligent, and driven young woman has emerged after years of training on...

Margo's Athlete Page 5 posts 1 video



25 Sep, 2017
Brilliant news, iconic route
25 Sep, 2017
As well as being the living end back in the day, wasn't this route known for a big dyno crux? Have the girls found new beta to crimp their way through the dyno?
25 Sep, 2017
Not sure it does, isn't that a different Ceuse Sharma route? But given Margo and Janja are top indoor comp boulderers, I wouldn't put it past them to manage a big dyno.
25 Sep, 2017
Well, the male top grade moved as well, so it is clear the gender gap stays exactly same, right?
25 Sep, 2017
Awesome!!!
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