Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) (9b+) at Margalef - Zona del Panta North . He spent 32 days trying the route and falling repeatedly on one move. This makes Ghisolfi the 4th person to climb the grade of 9b+ after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos.
The route was bolted by Chris Sharma who worked the route on and off for a few years before attempting it with Alex Megos. Ghisolfi belayed Megos on the first ascent in May 2018.
After his ascent, Ghisolfi said: 'After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow.
'I can finally join the 9b+ club of Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos. Without them, it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful (and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realise it was possible.'
Ghisolfi has climbed four 9b's in total; La Capella in Siurana, One Slap in Arco, First Round, First Minute at Margalef and Lapsus at Andonno. He is no slouch at competitions either having won five lead World Cups.
Here's a video of Alex Megos attempting the route a few days before his first ascent:
Comments
I remember a clip of Ghisolfi and Sharma going full "Allez" at Megos while he was trying the route.
It was pointed out how strange it was that an American and Italian were shouting French at a German while in Spain.
It's the lingua franca.
It's bloody annoying.
I wouldn't mind the shouts of "Allez" when I climb. Better than the usual "shit or get off the pot" style of comment I'm used to.
I don't mind it, in fact I prefer it Venga or dai dai!