Ryan Pasquill has ticked the classic 9a Bain de Sang (9a) at Saint-Loup, Switzerland. The 25m vertical to off-vertical line was first climbed in 1993 by local legend Fred Nicole as one of the world's first of the grade.
Ryan has recently been travelling around Europe with his partner Maddy Cope, who has had a productive trip, ticking Mind Control 8c+ and Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/E9. Ryan told UKC:
'After climbing and predominantly failing (just me) in Oliana for a few weeks we needed a change of venue and a break from the more athletic style of climbing. Bain Du Sang sprung to mind as it's an old-school classic with a reputation for being a bit gnarly. It isn't steep and requires focus to make the holds work. You can get a lot of weight through your feet, which is a style that suits me, so I thought it would be worth a look.'
A 5am start was necessary to bring good conditions; the second early start to bag a project in a week, as Maddy had done on Prinzip a few days earlier. 'We are definitely not early birds,' Ryan commented, 'but conditions are important on routes like this.'
Having ticked such a famous line, Ryan allowed himself to get a bit psyched. he told UKC:
'Bain was a dream route for me as a historical tick - it's up there with the likes of Action Direct, Hubble, Om, Mutation, Northern Lights etc. These are the kind of sport routes which inspire me the most. I'm not one for getting excited when I top routes out but have to say this one definitely gave me a 'c'mon yes!' moment. Next... It is time for home and work!'
In October last year, Ryan ticked Speed Intégrale 9a at Voralpsee in Switzerland.
Comments
C’mon the Quill!
I have nothing against the athletism of modern climbing but I really like it when Ryan gets stuff done to this level.
The last samurais of the old school.