UKC

Felipe Camargo repeats El Bon Combat (9b)

© Felipe Camargo

Brazilian Felipe Camargo has made the 3rd ascent of El Bon Combat at Cova de Ocell, Spain. The route was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2015 and was repeated by Jakob Schubert in 2018.

Chris Sharma climbed El Bon Combat two years after his ascent of La Dura Dura and it was one of his hardest first ascents. He gave the route 9b/+, although second ascentionist Jacob Schubert believed it was a hard 9a+ - he was in particularly good shape at the time.

Below is a video of Chris Sharma on the route:

Camargo has been attempting the route since late March, after a two-week stint in 2018. On the day of his ascent, Camargo was feeling a great deal of pressure to climb the route with bad weather rolling in and his camera crew due to leave. During his successful attempt, he remembers thinking about his friend David Lama, who died in an avalanche last week:

'I dreamed with David Lama last night, woke up super sad... Posted about him and was thinking of him all day... The pressure was just totally off, I put things in perspective and felt like it didn't really matter if I sent anymore... at least not today!

'I had a good first try but broke a foothold and fell. On my second try the wind kind of stopped, I made it through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time I didn't feel any pressure, all I could think while resting was how fucking good David Lama climbed. I remembered some of the World cups that I watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed. The wind picked up again and I just went for it, didn't hesitate, climbed fast and sent! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately. That is a moment that I will never forget!

'Thanks Ethan Pringle for all the support and fun times working on this route together! Thanks Chris Sharma for the vibes today and Martí for bolting this amazing route! And thanks David Lama for another time influencing my climbing from whenever you are! I'm drinking for you today.'

"El Bon Combat" 9b ✅! What a especial day! I was really feeling the pressure to send today...the weather looks really bad from tomorrow onto the next week and the filmmakers are leaving soon, could have been the last shot to send with them and who knows...maybe the last shot before i had to go back to Brasil! I dreamed with @davidlama_official last night, woke up super sad...posted about him and was thinking of him all day...the pressure was just totally off, i put things in perspective and felt like it didn't really matter if i sent anymore...at least not today! I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, i made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time i didn't feel any pressure...all i could think while resting was how fucking good @davidlama_official climbed...i remembered some of the World cups that i watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it...didn't hesitate, climbed fast and sent!! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately... that is a moment that i will never forget! Thanks @ethan_pringle for all the support and fun times working on this route together! Thanks @chris_sharma 👑 for the vibes today and Martí for bolting this amazing route! And thanks @davidlama_official for another time influencing my climbing from whenever you are! Im drinking for you today 🍻 🎥: still from #dedicate coming out soon on @redbulladventure

A post shared by Felipe Camargo (@felipe.camargo) on


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Felipe Camargo is a Brazilian sport climber and boulderer. He kickstarted his climbing career by winning the 2006 Brazilian Climbing Championships and has climbed up to Font 8C and French 9b.

Felipe's Athlete Page 8 posts 1 video



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