Article Steve McClure climbs 1000th 8a - The Magic Grade
Having recently ticked his 1000th 8a, Steve McClure writes about what he feels is 'the magic grade'... 8a. THE magic grade. There's something special about the number, it has a certain ring to it and any route with an...
Comments
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/08/pembroke_and_lakes_e8_onsights_for_mcclure-63670
Did Steve use a skyhook? I'm sure he doesn't care (and I certainly don't) but does it count as an on-sight if you know you need a specialist piece of kit prior?
Yes
In this case, many people take a sky hook to onsight lord of the flies so I think it would be more surprising if someone didn’t take at least one hook with them on this. Steve planned to take a hook . Also the main hook placement is pretty obvious, and the sequences of climbing are way harder to spot and he read the moves so well.
Also he missed a fairly crucial (obviously not that crucial for him!!) nut 1 in the headwall. This meant that apart from a sky hook, the only gear he had between him girdle ledge was a small nut. And it stays hard to the very top.
Ed
Thanks for clarifying. Also thanks everyone for all the dislikes to a genuine question.
Isn't there a quote from James McHaffie along the lines that gathering good beta is one of the essential skills of the trad on-sighter?