UKC

Fast Ascent of Bewilderness (Font 8B+) for Will Bosi

© Band of Birds

Will Bosi has made an impressively quick ascent of Dan Varian's Bewilderness (Font 8B+) at Badger Cove in the Peak District. The problem took him just four attempts.

Four attempts was all Will needed for one of the Peak's hardest  © Band of Birds
Four attempts was all Will needed for one of the Peak's hardest
© Band of Birds

Spending his first two attempts warming up on the problem by climbing to the crux and dropping off, it was only once Will had climbed the problem that he realised he could have flashed it. He prepared meticulously for the problem by watching any video or looking at any photo he could find:

'When you get to the crag, you already know where you will put your feet and hands for each move. Just knowing the climb is possible makes a huge mental difference and having the beta given to you saves countless attempts. It's definitely far easier to repeat a problem than to get the first ascent. Then warm up and get to it.'

Dan Varian first climbed Bewilderness in 2011, after discovering the crag a year earlier. He also climbed Dandelion Mind (8B/+) and Badger, Badger, Badger (8A). Bewilderness is considered one of the hardest problems in the Peak District and has only had two other repeats from Dan Turner and David Mason.

Watching as many videos as possible gave him a mental advantage  © Band of Birds
Watching as many videos as possible gave him a mental advantage
© Band of Birds

A fine effort from Will! He managed to stay strong during lockdown. Fortunately, he has a board at home and was doing 'technique drills, flexibility work, fingerboarding and using a pinch block.'

Will was in sensational form just before lockdown, climbing his first 9b route in Suirana with an ascent of La Capella. This was the first time a Brit had climbed the grade abroad.

What's next for Will?

'I mean mutation is always on the list, but as the Tor is a small very busy crag I've been waiting until things quiet down to return there!'


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Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 62 posts 34 videos



5 Jun, 2020

Well done Will.

Go Team GB Climbing! Go!

6 Jun, 2020

Top effort man!

8 Jun, 2020

Will, if you are reading this, the tor has been pretty quiet of late. If you’re not careful the Quill is gonna pip you to the second ascent... can’t let a weak old codger like Ryan do it before you, eh?

Is Ryan back on it again this year? Remember the last time I spoke to him he'd lost the love for it, although who can blame him - he'd put in several years of concerted effort.

Be great if he did come back and do it...

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