French climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of a new 9b/+ at Pic Saint-Loup, France. The route is 50m in total and breaks down into a 9a+, followed by a Font 8A+ boulder problem. He has named the route Beyond Integral.
Bouin describes the moves on the route as 'amazing and spectacular' with everything from jumps, drop-knees and heels, to tufas and crimps. In terms of difficulty, he has compared the route to Move (f9b/+) in Flatanger, or La Rage d'Adam (f9b/+) in the Verdon Gorge. Bouin appears to be a big fan of the slash grade and has commented:
'It's hard to have a clear mind. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. That's why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece.'
The route was first bolted by Fedric Ferraro and Bouin also climbed an 8c+ bolted by Ferraro, naming it 'Terra Nova.'
For the past year, Bouin has been on a mission to complete the hardest routes in France on his Vintage Rock Tour. He's travelled to Buoux, Verdon and Céüse, repeating hard classics such as Biographie (f9a+) and adding some of his own like La Rage d'Adam in the Verdon.
Comments
Good to see he had his beenie on, ready for the boulder problem.
Looks like a bobble hat to me. Isn't that more trad climber's attire?
I hope there is a video. He is such a great climber to watch.