UKC

Steve McClure on Elder Statesman

"HXS 7a - Graded cos everyone wants to know the grade straight away and I don't have a clue. Gear at head height and good. A wild jump around the arete is one of the hardest moves I have ever done, if you don't hold the crimp out left you will swing way out, drag your ropes all the way down the arete and then crash back into the crack, a bit of a clatter but not E8 bad, unless the ropes cut! Also I reckon if you were really tall the jump would be much easier, like 6c, so E6 then? In the end it doesn't seem to matter that much especially on a route like this."
-Steve McClure on Rocktalk

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2 Mar, 2004
Your not very flexible then?!
2 Mar, 2004
Not to mention that incredible arete at Burbage.
2 Mar, 2004
I don't believe it. No way could he climb anything that hard with a cricket jumper slung all nonchalant over his shoulders and humming the final movement of Bruch's violin concerto. It might fool you punters, but no way is a hard and seasoned grit supremo like myself fooled for a second. Nice try whoever took the photo (bet you took the one of Kerry sitting next to Jsane Fonda at an anto-Vietnam War demo?)
2 Mar, 2004
Gordon, Dazman and I are not ones for self-publicizing - we let our achievements speak quietly. But that 'incredible arete at Burbage' went last Sunday (Daz did the first moves and I led through on the a cheval upper section) at about E11, 7c (not too hard - we didn't have to change out of our hush puppies into our rock boots).
2 Mar, 2004
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