Adam Ondra, an 11 year old Czech, has onsighted Dinosaure and Maelstrom, both 8a+, at Seynes and Russan in France. He also onsighted four 8a's at Claret and St. Leger.
I am sure I have read in the past about the unsuitability of serious and sustained cranking on undeveloped bones ligaments and tendons - storing up serious joint damage for the future - any medics or one-time shooting stars out there? My joints are knacked and I did't start serious training until my thirties - way too late doubtless. Chris ;-}
Is no one going to ask what he's done at Stanage or quibble over the grade then ? This sort of achievement is so far beyond what the average punter can comprehend - how long ago was the first on sight of an 8a+ ? or even the first 8a+ redpoint for that matter ? It'd be really interesting to know what sort of a regime an 11 year old has to go through to be this good.
Grand Illusion, Sugerloaf, Tahoe. Tony Yaniro was 17 at the time. Very overhanging corner-going-on-roof crack. I paid a visit in 1981 with a Famous English Climber who was entertaining thoughts of trying it. Very impressive. FEC didn't get his rope out of his bag.
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